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PRESENT  AND  FUTURE, 
RISE  AND  PROGRESS, 
“STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS,' 


By  HENRY  BROWN,  Esq. 
By  JAS.  A.  MARSHALL,  Esq. 
By  HARRIETT  MARTINEAU. 


* 


»■- 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/presentfuturepro1846brow 


THE 


Present  and  Future 

Prospects  of  Chicago: 

AN  ADDRESS 

Delivered  before  The  Chicago  Lyceum, 
January  20,  1846. 


BY  HENRY  BROWN,  ESQ, 

Author  of  “ History  of  Illinois.” 


\ 

At  a meeting  of  the  Chicago  Lyceum,  held  at  the  Court  House,  in 
the  City  of  Chicago,  on  the  evening  of  the  28th  of  January,  ult.  Mark 
Skinner,  Esq.,  Vice-President  in  the  Cham,  and  George  Manierre, 
Secretary. 

It  was  Resolved,  That  Henry  Brown,  Esq.,  President  of  said  Ly- 
ceum, be  requested  to  furnish  a copy  of  his  Inaugural  Address  for  pub- 
lication, and  that  Dr.  Wm.  B.  Egan,  Mr.  Wm.  M.  Larrabee,  and  Mr. 
Thomas  IToyne  be  appointed  a Committee  to  superintend  its  publica- 
tion. 

MARK  SKINNER,  Vice-President. 

George  Manierre,  Secretary. 


CHICAGO: 

FERGUS  PRINTING  COMPANY, 

244-8  ILLINOIS  STREET. 

1 876. 


INAUGURAL  ADDRESS, 


Gentlemen  of  the  Lyceum  : — In  entering  upon  the 
duties  assigned  me,  as  President  of  this  Lyceum,  I shall  at 
present  do  little  more  than  thank  you  for  the  honor  con- 
ferred upon  me  by  the  appointment,  and  assure  you  in  the 
simplicity  of  my  heart,  as  every  militia  officer  does  in  New 
England,  from  the  General  of  Brigade,  down  to  the  Fourth 
Corporal,  on  his  elevation  “to  rank  and  fame,”  that  “I  will 
endeavor  to  serve  you  according  to  the  best  of  my  abili- 
ties.” 

In  order,  however,  that  I may  do  so,  it  is  necessary  that 
I speak  to  you  with  freedom.  This  I shall  do  at  all  events, 
both  now  and  hereafter,  whether  you  hear  or  whether  you 
forbear. 

Our  Saviour  while  on  earth,  in  speaking  to  those  he  ad- 
dressed, said  they  were  a generation  of  vipers,  that  they 
were  wolves  in  sheep’s  clothing,  and  so  forth.  The  Apostle 
Paul  used  language  equally  plain  and  often  as  severe.  The 
elder  Cato,  in  speaking  of  the  Roman  people,  said,  “They 
were  like  sheep,  for  as  those  can  scarcely  be  brought  to  stir 
singly,  but  all  in  a body  readily  follow  their  leaders;”  just 
such  are  ye.  “ The  men  whose  council  you  would  not  take 
as  individuals,  lead  you  with  ease  in  a crowd.”  It  may,, 
perhaps,  be  so  with  us,  and,  to  a certain  extent,  it  unques- 
tionably is. 

It  is  not,  however,  my  intention  to  speak  thus  of  you  or, 
of  this  people;  because  it  would  give  offence,  and  I am 
unwilling,  especially  on  this  occasion,  to  say  anything  which 
can  by  possibility  be  tortured  into  disrespect,  and  so  long 
as  it  shall  be  my  fortune,  good  or  ill,  to  preside  over  this- 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


o 


Institution,  I hope  and  trust  that  nothing  will  be  said  in 
discussion  here,  or  even  attempted,  which  ought  to  offend 
the  most  delicate  ear.  It  is  better  for  us,  gentlemen,  sit- 
uated as  we  are,  and  living  in  a singular  age,  to  imitate  the 
forbearance  of  a distinguished  clergyman,  who  being  invited 
to  preach  before  the  Royal  Court  of  France,  in  a by-gone 
age,  at  the  conclusion  of  a thrilling  discourse,  told  them  if 
they  did  not  do  so  and  so,  they  would  go  to  a place  he 
forbore  to  mention  in  that  courtly  audience.  While  the 
oak,  whose  sturdy  arms  resist  the  tempest,  is  uptom  by  its 
roots — the  pliant  reed,  that  yields. to  the  blast,  escapes  un- 
hurt. The  human  tongue,  as  Plutarch  expresses  it,  “accus- 
tomed to  speak  with  freedom  in  the  cause  of  Justice,”  is 
an  instrument  of  great  power.  It  is  the  lever  of  Archimedes 
that  moves  the  moral  world.  With  truth  for  its  support  it  is 
irresistible.  The  most  stupid  and  exalted  of  our  race  obey 
its  impulse  and  feel  its  power.  Flow  important  then  that  its 
use  be  cultivated,  and  its  efforts  be  aright  directed.  Such,, 
gentlemen,  is  in  part  our  object  in  coming  hither,  and  so 
long  as  we  adhere  to  such  intentions,  so  long  we  shall 
deserve  ahd  without  doubt  meet  with  public  approbation.. 

In  order,  gentlemen,  that  our  efforts  may  be  useful,  an. 
addition  to  our  number  will  be  necessary.  learned  divine,, 
on  being  told  by  one  of  his  parishioners  that  he  had  thought 
for  sometime  of  joining  the  church,  knowing  the  appli- 
cant to  be  unworthy,  informed  him  that  the  church  was 
full;  and  that  they  had  pretty  much  concluded  not  to  take 
any  more.  It  is  not  so,  gentlemen,  with  us.  The  Lyceum 
is  not  yet  full,  we  shall  therefore  be  happy  to  receive 
additions,  provided  the  applicants  be  worthy.  AVe  wish, 
however,  to  have  it  understood  that  admission  here  are 
not  of  course.  The  wisdom  of  ancient  Persia  has  fre- 
quently been  extolled.  In  her  renowned  Capitol  there 
was,  as  we  are  informed,  in  olden  times,  an  institution  in 
some  respects  like  ours.  The  number  of  its  members,  how- 
ever, was  limited ; and  being  very  select,  the  learned,  and 
the  wise,  the  patriot,  the  hero,  and  the  sage,  the  most  dis- 
tinguished courtiers,  and  the  most  accomplished  scholars 
in  the  realm  sought  and  obtained  admission  thither.  As 
a perpetual  memento  that  its  numbers  were  thus  limited, 
and  in  no  event  whatever  to  be  increased,  a vessel  filled 
with  water  to  the  brim,  so  that  a single  drop  additional 
would  cause  it  to  overflow,  was  placed  beside  the  chair; 


4 


THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 


around  it  were  vases  of  the  choicest  flowers,  whose  fra- 
grance filled  the  apartment,  and  whose  beauty  delighted 
every  eye;  at  the  time  of  which  I speak,  there  was,  we  are 
told,  in  Persia’s  Capitol,  a youth  of  rare  attainments.  His 
mind  just  then  emerging  into  manhood,  was  the  delight  of 
Persia’s  Court;  the  Prince  saw  him  and  was  charmed,  the 
courtier,  the  scholar,  and  the  statesman  were  all  delighted, 
and  with  one  accord  desired  that  he,  against  their  rules, 
might  be  admitted  among  their  number.  He  was  accord- 
ingly invited  to  attend  their  meetings,  and  a request  at  last 
to  be  admitted  was  preferred.  It  was  seconded  by  the 
Prime  Minister  of  the  great  King,  but  the  President,  point- 
ing to  the  vessel,  then  before  him,  already  full,  the  motion 
was  withdrawn.  The  youth,  however,  still  persisting,  and 
in  his  zeal,  forgetting  where  he  was,  with  a step  lighter  than 
any  fairy,  advanced  towards  the  chair,  and  plucking  from 
the  choicest  flower  the  vase  contained,  a rose-leaf  of  sur- 
passing beauty,  he  placed  it  with  gentle  hand  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  sparkling  element,  where  it  floated  a monument 
of  his  triumph,  without  causing  a drop  to  overflow.  I need 
not  inform  you,  gentlemen,  that  he  was  at  once  admitted 
by  acclamation.  I mention  this  not  with  a view  to  induce 
the  gay  world  to  join  us,  and  thus  contribute  a little  to  our 
library,  our  funds,  and  to  our  moral  and  intellectual  capital, 
but  to  show  that  perseverance  is  all-powerful,  and  that  by 
proper  efforts,  the  case  of  those  as  yet  excluded  from  our 
number,  and  the  enjoyment  of  privileges  which  ought  to  be 
highly  valued,  is  not  entirely  hopeless. 

Since  the  establishment  of  this  Lyceum  in  1834,  I have 
been.  invited  frequently  to  speak  before  it.  I was  invited 
so  to  do  early  in  1837,  and  chose  for  my  theme  “The  pres- 
ent and  future  prospects  of  Chicago.”  My  remarks,  how- 
ever, though  well -intended,  were  by  some  unkindly  taken. 
The  speculation  then  in  vogue,  by  which  so  many  had  been 
enriched,  was  not  commended  quite  so  highly  as  many  sup- 
posed it  ought.  Besides,  some  doubts  were  then  expressed, 
whether  the  system  would  endure,  and  whether  speculation, 
with  neither  industry  nor  economy  to  aid  it,  would  exalt  us 
as  a people.  I then  supposed,  and  still  suppose,  as  Shakes- 
peare says,  that — 


“He’s  a bad  surgeon,  who  for  pity  spares 
The  part  infected,  till  the  gangrene  spreads, 
And  all  the  body  perishes.” 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


5 


The  Lyceum  then  was  held  in  a dilapidated  building  on 
Clark  street,  between  Ogden’s  Building  and  the  Sherman 
House  alley,  used  as  a church;  a building  which  led  a 
stranger,  as  we  are  told,  when  passing  through  Chicago,  to 
remark,  “That  he  had  frequently  heard  of  God’s  house,  but 
never  saw  His  barn  before.”  Our  circumstances  since, 
have  somewhat  changed;  some  sixteen,  seventeen,  or  eigh- 
teen churches,  vying  in  splendor  with  houses  of  public  wor- 
ship in  the  Atlantic  cities,  now  stand  triumphantly  before 
us  as  mementos  of  piety  and  the  arts,  nowhere  in  towns  of 
equal  magnitude  scarcely  equalled,  certainly  in  none  ex- 
celled. 

We  are  permitted  also  to  hold  our  meetings  in  a Court 
House,  erected  on  public  credit,  and  to  our  shame  be  it 
spoken,  wherein  the  prospect  of  its  redemption  is  distant 
and  uncertain. 

On  the  1 6th  of  June,  1831,  twenty-four  lots  in  the  City 
of  Chicago,  given  by  the  United  States,  among  other  lands, 
to  the  State  of  Illinois,  for  the  use  of  the  Illinois  and  Mich- 
Canal,  were  granted  by  letters  patent,  bearing  date  on  that 
day,  and  executed  by  the  Governor,  to  the  County  of  Cook, 
“to  aid  said  County  in  the  erection  of  public  buildings, 
and  to  the  use  and  for  the  purposes  before  mentioned.”  I 
quote  from  the  deed  of  trust,  which  is  on  record  here.  The 
lots  in  question  are  among  the  most  valuable  in  Chicago; 
six  of  them  are  upon  Lake  street,  and  five  upon  Water 
street.  Of  the  twenty-four  lots  thus  patented,  sixteen  have 
been  sold,  worth  at  the  present  time  $100,000,  not  for  the 
purpose  of  erecting  public  buildings,  but  to  pay  current 
expenses.  The  remaining  eight  are  yet  unsold,  and  consti- 
tute what  is  called  the  Public  Square,  the  block  on  which 
we  now  are  assembled.  Whether  the  State  erred  or  not,  in 
making  the  grant,  I will  not  pause  to  enquire.  The  County 
of  Cook  being  the  grantor,  and  interested  in  the  trust,  it 
behooves  us  not  to  scrutinize  the  act  too  closely.  Inasmuch, 
however,  as  it  has  been  proposed  to  sell  the  public  square, 
not  for  the  purpose  of  erecting  public  buildings  and  execut- 
ing thus  the  trust,  but  for  the  purpose  of  paying  the  County 
debt,  prodigally  contracted,  a few  remarks  upon  the  subject 
seem  now  appropriate. 

It  is  needless  here  to  say  that  such  an  act  would  be  an 
act  of  double  treachery,  because  it  is  to  all  apparent,  though 
men  often  “ love  the  treason  who  despise  the  traitor.”  A 


6 


THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 


deed  like  this  would  not,  I apprehend,  be  sanctioned  or 
approved.  Reserved  for  public  use,  and  embellished  as  it 
ought  to  be,  with  trees  and  shrubbery,  it  will  be  an  orna- 
ment to  our  City,  and  generations  now  unborn  will  yet  arise 
and  bless  us  for  having  spared  it. 

But  to  resume  the  subject  from  which  I have  thus  di- 
gressed. In  1842,  I was  again  requested  to  address  this 
Lyceum,  I chose  on  that  occasion  for  my  theme  again  the 
subject  for  which  I had  been  abused,  the  (then)  present  and 
future  prospects  of  Chicago,  and  promised  in  my  discourse 
to  resume  the  subject  five  years  thereafter.  That  time  has 
not  arrived,  I am,  however,  requested  to  anticipate  a little, 
and  redeem  a promise  which  has  a year  to  run.  Expecting, 
as  I do,  a discount  on  the  debt  for  paying  in  advance.  I 
undertake  the  task  with  pleasure,  and  will  endeavor  to  dis- 
charge its  duties  without  fear,  favor,  or  affection,  as  each 
Grand  Juror  swears. 

In  1842,  Chicago  was  exceedingly  depressed.  Never 
perhaps  more  so.  Our  public  credit  was  then  exhausted, 
and  labor  on  our  public  works  had  nearly  or  wholly  ceased. 
The  opinions  I had  expressed  in  1837  were  then  repeated, 
and  however  strange  it  may  appear,  without  offence.  In 
1842,  when  everyone  desponded,  I took  occasion  to  re- 
mark as  follows: 

“Canal  or  no  Canal,  Chicago  will  advance.  Her  pro- 
gress will  be  onward,  and  nothing,  save  some  great  calamity, 
can  arrest  her  course,  or  the  consumate  folly,  depravity,  or 
imprudence  of  her  people.”  Again,  “You  have  been  told 
that  Chicago  depends  for  her  prosperity  on  the  Canal. 
While  I admit  the  Canal’s  importance,  and  look  forward 
with  the  utmost  confidence  to  its  completion,  I deny  all 
such  dependence.  So  long  as  yonder  inland  seas  bear  on 
their  surface  the  wealth  of  every  clime — so  long  as  yonder 
fertile  prairies  bloom  with  verdure,  and  ‘the  cattle  upon 
the  thousand  hills’  shall  graze  their  herbage,  and  so  long  as 
yonder  interminable  fields  shall  wave  with  their  golden  har- 
vest, an  effort  to  blot  Chicago  from  existence,  or  to  depress 
her  rising  consequence,  would  be  like  an  attempt  to  quench 
the  stars.” 

Having  on  that  occasion  prophesied  a little,  permit  me, 
gentlemen,  on  this  to  prophesy  a little  more.  There  are 
persons  now  living  (though  not  present)  in  Chicago  who 
will  see  5,000,000  of  people  in  Illinois,  and  200,000  in  this 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


7 


City,*  a larger  number  than  the  Metropolis  of  England,  in 
the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  contained.  This  to  some  may 
problematically  appear.  It  is,  however,  not  only  possible 
Tut  probable,  and  I will  tell  you  why.  The  State  of  Illinois 
contains  56,158  square  miles  of  more  fertile  soil  than  any 
where  exists.  It  is  larger  than  New  York,  Ohio,  or  Pennsyl- 
vania. It  contains  more  arable  land  than  all  New  England, 
and  more  than  England  and  Wales  together.  It  is  larger 
than  Portugal  and  Denmark,  and  has  more  acres  than  Hol- 
land, Belgium,  and  Switzerland  united.  Twelve  such  States 
as  Connecticut  could  be  carved  out  of  it  and  a fraction  still 
be  left.  W ere  it  as  densely  settled  as  Massachusetts  is,  it 
would  contain  that  number  now.  Is  it  then,  I ask,  improb- 
able that  Illinois  “in  three  score  years  and  ten,”  will  be  as 
densely  settled  as  Massachusetts  is  at  present,  and  should 
the  State  contain  5,000,000,  is  200,000  for  Chicago  an  over- 
estimate? 

In  order,  however,  to  insure  her  growth  and  her  pros- 
perity permanently  secure,  some  effort  will  be  necessary. 
Man  is  born  to  toil.  Industry  is  essential  to  health  and 
happiness,  also  to  moral  and  intellectual  improvement. 
Tabor  is  a blessing  only  in  disguise. 

Among  the  means  essential  to  our  prosperity,  good  roads 
from  here  in  all  directions  are  pre-eminent.  Not  plank- 
roads  existing  on  paper  only,  or  on  the  pages  of  the  revised 
■Statutes  of  Illinois,  like  that  from  this  City  to  Rockford, 

* The  writer  was  present  when  this  Lecture  was  delivered  at  the  ‘ ‘ Old 
Court  House,”  being  one  long,  oblong  apartment,  capable  of  seating 
about  200  persons.  And  when  the  extravagant  perdiction  was  made 
‘ ‘ that  persons  ivere  now  living  ( though  not  present ) in  Chicago  who  will 
see  200.000  people  in  this  City!'"  An  uproarious  laugh  of  incredulity 
convulsed  the  entire  audience.  And  yet,  the  Orator  so  far  doubted  his 
own  statement  that  he  could  not  venture  to  say,  that  the  persons  then 
Jiving , who  would  see  this  City  contain  200,000  people,  were  in  Chicago 
■ or  in  his  hearing. 

But  time,  has  not  only  verified  his  statement,  that  the  persons  were 
then  living  who  should  see  this;  but  further,  and  far  beyond  his  exceed- 
ingly, what  seemed  extravagant  prediction,  there  were  then  listening  to 
.his  own  lecture,  in  that  room,  at  least  twenty  or  thirty  persons,  who,  liv- 
ing in  Chicago  then,  have  lived  to  see  it  contain  over  400,000,  or  double 
the  number  of  people  estimated,  and  that  too,  before  the  lapse  of  30 
years. 


8 


THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 


about  which  much  has  been  said  and  little  done.  Nor 
railroads,  such  as  were  made  a few  nights  since,  at  a 
meeting  here,  which  it  is  feared  will  sleep  the  sleep  of 
death;  but  plank-roads,  railroads,  and  good  common  roads,, 
upon  the  earth’s  broad  surface,  which  common  people 
delight  to  travel. 

It  is,  therefore,  gentlemen,  to  be  regretted  deeply,  so  I 
think,  that  our  Legislature  at  its  last  session  should  have 
repealed  the  law,  requiring  labor  during  the  last  year  to  be- 
performed  on  public  roads,  as  also  the  law,  authorizing  the 
imposition  of  a small  tax  for  their  improvement.  This  factr. 
is  not  generally  known.  It  is  nevertheless  so. 

In  1841,  a law  was  passed,  authorizing  the  County  Com- 
missioners’ Court,  to  require  from  one  to  five  day’s  labor 
from  each  able-bodied  man,  between  21  and  50,  in  Illinois, 
to  be  laid  out  on  the  public  highways. 

In  1843,  a law  was  passed  imposing  a small  tax  for  their 
improvement. 

On  the  28th  of  February,  1845,  these  laws  were  both 
unfortunately  repealed.  Another  was  substituted  in  their 
stead,  but  so  imperfect  in  its  provisions,  that  it  became 
entirely  useless.  It  gave  no  authority  to  collect  a tax  or 
penalty. 

The  general  road  act,  passed  March  3,  1845,  made  no 
provision  for  that  year.  Of  course,  the  State  of  Illinois,, 
during  the  whole  of  1845,  was  without  a road  act. 

Fortunately,  however,  it  was  of  but  little  inconvenience. 
The  laws  of  Illinois,  like  some  of  the  fixed  stars  whose  light, 
it  is  said,  has  not  yet  reached  us,  and  like  others,  although 
extinguished  some  time  since,  continued  yet  to  shine  on,  so 
exceedingly  tardy  in  their  progress  that  their  passage  and 
their  repeal  is  not  essential  in  every  instance  till  months,  and 
sometimes  years,  we  are  told,  thereafter.  Besides,  the  peo- 
ple of  this  State  are  “a  law-abiding  people.”  The  repeal,, 
then,  of  a salutary  statute,  had  it  been  known,  would  not 
have  prevented  labor  from  being  so  essential  to  our  pros- 
perity. 

When  the  Parthenon,  or  temple  of  Minerva,  at  Athens* 
was  completed,  the  oxen,  which  for  years  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  draw  stone  from  the  quarry  to  the  Acropolis,  were 
discharged  from  further  service,  and,  as  a mark  of  special 
favor,  thenceforth  permitted  to  graze  on  the  public  com- 
mons. Sometime  thereafter  a celebration  took  place  in  the.- 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


9 


city,  and  a procession  was  formed  from  thence  or  the  lower 
town  to  the  Acropolis. — In  that  procession,  a large  number 
of  oxen  in  their  yokes  were  introduced,  to  fill  the  pageant. 
The  oxen  before  discharged  perceiving  others  about  to  per- 
form a task  which  had  (as  they  supposed)  for  years  de- 
volved on  them,  took  their  position  without  drivers  in  the 
line,  and  performed  the  route  as  regularly  as  before.  It  is 
just  so  with  the  people  of  Illinois.  Accustomed  to  “mend 
their  ways,”  without  a legal  requisition  for  that  purpose,, 
they  have  hitherto,  and  it  is  hoped  will  continue  thus  to  do, 
“law  or  no  law.” 

A writer  (an  enthusiast  of  course),  some  years  ago,  in. 
speaking  of  rivers  and  their  use,  observed,  they  were  de- 
signed  to  feed  canals — and  Talleyrand,  Napoleon’s  prime 
minister,  for  many  years,  is  represented,  though  perhaps 
untruly,  to  have  said  that  “ language  was  invented  to  con- 
ceal our  thoughts.”  Northern  Illinois,  by  our  Creator,  was 
designed  for  no  fictitious  purpose.  It  is  adapted  in  a pecu- 
liar manner  for  either  railroads,  plank-roads,  common  roads, 
or  canals;  and  nothing  but  an  effort  in  behalf  of  her  people 
is  required  to  complete  them  altogether.  Of  the  Canal  it  is 
useless  now  to  speak.  A promise,  a mere  promise  by  our 
Legislature,  (accompanied  by  a grant  which  renders  its 
violation  impossible)  to  withhold  their  sacrilegious  hands 
from  its  remaining  funds,  has  not  only  its  completion  per- 
fectly secured,  but  the  payment  in  half  a century  or  so  of  all 
the  debt  hitherto  incurred  for  its.  construction,  and,  in  part, 
the  redemption  of  our  country’s  honor.  Two  years  will 
witness  its  completion,  and  the  wealth  of  other  realms  in 
triumph  floating  on  its  surfafce. 

The  question  having  frequently  been  asked,  whether  the 
completion  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal  will  benefit 
Chicago  or  no.  Allow  me,  gentlemen,  here  to  say,  it  will, 
in  a thousand  different  ways.  Time  will  not  permit  me  now 
to  illustrate  this  position.  I hope,  however,  the  question 
will,  sometime  during  the  season,  be  debated  here,  and  then 
each  one  will  have  an  opportunity  to  be  heard. 

There  is  another  subject,  gentlemen,  which,  at  the  pre- 
sent time,  bears  heavily  upon  us.  I now  allude  to  a rail- 
road from  Chicago  to  the  Mississippi.  It  is.  not  my  inten- 
tion here  to  speak  of  Whitney’s  road,  because  his  views1 
upon  the  subject  are,  I think,  erroneous,  and  his  plans 
wholly  impracticable.  A railroad,  however,  from  the  Atlan- 


IO 


THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 


tic  cities  to  the  Mississippi,  and  westward  thence,*  is  just  as 
sure  of  its  completion  in  our  day  and  generation  as  the 
sparks  are  to  fly  upward.  That  road  must,  of  course,  pass 
around  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Michigan;  and,  un- 
less we  are  wise,  it  may  perhaps  go  further  south,  and 
escape  Chicago  altogether.  If  a railroad  from  here  to 
Galena,  or  to  the  Mississippi,  was  now  completed,  or  in 
progress,  is  it  not  more  than  probable  that  such  road  would 
be  a connecting  link  between  the  East  and  the  “ Far  West?” 
The  progress  of  empire,  since  the  morning  stars  first  sang 
together,  has  been  westward.  The  Euphrates’  banks  re- 
ceived from  the  Almighty  Earth’s  first  tenants.  Greece 
. shortly  to  power  and  fame  succeeded.  Rome  afterwards 
.supplanted  Greece  in  her  career,  and  Western  Europe,  on 
her  ruins,  thereafter  rose  to  empire — 

“ Rome  heard  the  Gothic  trumpets’  blast, 

The  march  of  hosts  as  Alaric  past.” 

England,  the  land  of  scholars  and  the  men  of  arms,  is 
rotten  ere  she  is  ripe — 

“A  Queen  upon  a throne  of  Gold, 

A Parliament  of  drones; 

A Nation’s  voice  that’s  bought  and  sold, 

While  every  cottage  groans.” 

Our  country,  gentlemen,  is  destined  shortly  to  become 

* It  is  a singular  verification  of  this  Orator’s  statements,  that  in  this 
■very  year  1846,  the  Whitney  project,  for  a Great  Pacific  Rail- 
road from  the  Mississippi,  was  proposed  to  Congress  by  a Memorial. 
This  was  referred  to  the  Committee  on  Public  Lands,  of  which  Judge 
Breese,  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  this  State,  was  then  Chairman.  That 
lie  made  a Report  thereon,  which  was  published.  This  Report  favors 
the  construction  of  the  Road,  though  not  on  the  Whitney  project. 
The  Report  is  remarkable  for  the  accuracy  of  detail — knowledge — it 
manifests,  in  tracing  out  the  lines  upon  which  it  has  been  built  through 
the  great  South  Pass  of  the  Mountains;  and  in  suggesting  the  practical 
means  which  were  adopted  long  afterwards,  in  1863  ; when  the  gigantic 
nature  of  the  undertaking  seemed  feasible  to  Congress : Though,  at  the 
time,  the  Report  was  made,  all  its  facts  and  details,  as  well  as  the 
enterprise  itself,  were  treated  with  derision  and  ridicule,  by  as  great  an 
authoi'ity  in  the  U.  S.  Senate  of  those  days  as  the  late  “Thomas  H. 
Benton,  of  Missouri.”  And  yet,  while  Breese  wears  no  garland,  is 
honored  by  no  memorial — a statue , in  marble,  of  Benton  as  author  of 
the  Road  to  the  Pacific — honors  his  memory  in  the  St.  Louis  Mer- 
chants’ Exchange. 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO.  II 

the  seat  of  wealth,  the  source  of  power,  the  home  of  learn- 
ing, and  we  hope  the  abode  of  virtue.  And  Chicago  is 
destined  also  to  much  honor.  Her  position  is  commanding 
and  her  progress  sure.  I saw,  in  an  English  paper,  a short 
time  since,  New  York,  Chicago,  and  New  Orleans  put  down 
as  three  of  the  most  prominent  points  in  our  Republic. — 
The  Rev.  Sidney  Smith,  now  deceased,  prebend  of  St. 
Paul’s,  the  projector,  with  Lord  Brougham  and  others,  of 
the  Edinburgh  Review , better  known  in  this  country  for  his 
remarks  in  relation  to  some  Pennsylvania  bonds,  of  which 
he  had  unfortunately  became  the  owner,  in  a letter  dated 
at  London,  on  the  28th  of  August,  1845,  directed  to  a gen- 
tleman in  this  city,  says:  “The  spot  from  which  I write 
(London)  was  considered  by  the  Romans  as  the  end  of  the 
world — the  spot  from  which  you  write  (Chicago),  remote  as 
it  seems,  may  become  hereafter  the  centre  of  civilization.” 
And  why,  I would  ask,  gentlemen,  may  it  not  be  so?  It  is 
but  a short  time  since,  and  within  the  recollection  of  many 
of  us  now  present,  when  the  population  of  those  States  was 
mostly  on  the  other  side  of  the  Alleganies.  Where  is  it 
now?  A majority  of  the  whole  is  west  thereof,  and  that 
majority  rapidly  increasing.  In  order,  however,  that  we 
may  fulfil  the  destiny  that  awaits  us  here,  much  is  to  be 
done.  Industry  and  economy  are  not  only  the  parents  of 
every  virtue,  but  the  cause  of  a nation’s,  as  well  as  of  an 
individual’s,  prosperity. 

The  City  of  Chicago,  since  her  incorporation,  the  County 
of  Cook,  since  known  as  such,  and  the  State  of  Illinois, 
since  her  admission  into  the  Union,  have  erred  exceedingly 
in  their  financial  operations.  I hazard  nothing,  I believe, 
in  saying,  that  one-half  of  the  moneys  raised  by  taxation, 
by  each,  and  borrowed,  for  which  we  are  now  indebted,  had 
it  been  juduciously  expended,  -would  have  effected  more 
than  the  whole  has  done  under  our  present  system.  Of 
this,  gentleman,  I speak  with  confidence — and  in  some 
cases  with  knowledge  too.  In  others,  I speak  from  facts, 
which  cannot  err. 

The  exposition  of  fraud  and  error — of  wrong  and  outrage, 
and  the  suggestion  of  improvements  to  correct  those  errors, 
and  remedy  those  wrongs  and  outrages,  is  at  times  an  un- 
gracious task,  and  not  unfrequently  with  danger  is  attended. 

When  the  great  Earl  of  Chatham,  “’mid  England’s  peers, 
arose  and  said  he  would  not  sit  quiet  when  his  liberty  was 


12 


THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 


invaded,  nor  look  in  silence  on  public  robbery,”  it  was' 
thought  by  many  a bold  speech — and  the  event  the  asser- 
tion justified.  Relying  upon  his  own  resources,  the  petty 
knaves,  the  acknowledged  fools,  and  the  conceded  villains 
throughout  the  realm,  were  from  his  counsels  totally  ex- 
cluded. They,  of  course,  combined  against  him,  and,  by 
the  aid  of  England’s  aristocracy,  more  corrupt  if  possible 
still,  ousted  the  patriot  and  statesman  from  place  and 
power.  Posterity,  however,  reversed  afterward  their  judg- 
ment, and  did  him  full  and  ample  justice. 

“The  eagle  flies  alone,  the  geese  in  flocks; 

Sheep  herd  together,  and  wolves  and  jackals 
In  packs  their  prey  pursue.” 

Time  would  fail  me  were  I on  this  occasion  to  investigate 
the  origin,  and  trace  the  progress  of  our  enormous  debt,* 

* We  have  looked  up  the  records  for  this  “ mormons  debt,”  of  which 
the  eloquent  orator  is  speaking,  and  find  that  the  debt  of  Chicago  was 
In  1838,  - - $9,996-54  In  1842,  - - $16,337.01 

" 1839,  - - 7,182.25  „ 1843,  - - 12,655.40 

11  1S40,  - - 6,559.63  11  1S46,  not  over  15,000.00 

,1  1841,  - - 12,387.67 

The  State  debt  of  that  time,  to  which  he  refers  in  the  text,  was 
about  $20,000,000;  two  millions  of  this  had  been  borrowed  abroad  to 
complete  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal.  The  State  failed  to  pay 
her  interest  on  the  debt  in  1838-9,  and  the  work  on  the  Canal  ceased; 
contractors  failed;  and  the  construction  was  for  the  time  abandoned,  it 
was  not  again  resumed  until  the  year  1845.  In  March  of  that  year,  an 
Act  was  passed,  providing/  that  if  the  holders  of  Canal  bonds  would 
advance  a sum  sufficient  to  complete  the  Canal,  the  State  would  con- 
vey to  trustees,  for  their  security  and  the  repayment  of  all  moneys 
advanced  by  them,  all  the  Canal  lands  remaining  unsold,  which  Con- 
gress had  donated  to  aid  the  State,  in  the  completion  of  the  improve- 
ment : the  Canal  itself,  so  far  as  it  had  been  constructed — and,  all  tolls 
to  be  received  after  its  completion,  until  the  whole  amount  of  all  moneys 
borrovred,  known  as  the  Canal  debt,  with  interest,  should  be  paid  to 
the  holders  of  Canal  bonds. 

Under  this  Act,  the  property  was  conveyed  to  Trustees — two  on  the 
part  of  the  bond-holders,  and  one  State  Trustee,  by  whom  the  Canal 
lands  were  sold.  The  Canal  was  finished  in  1847,  and  opened  to  busi- 
ness in  1848;  and  the  whole  debt  has  been  paid  from  the  moneys 
received  from  sales  of  land  and  tolls,  and  the  Canal  has  become  a 
source  of  revenue  to  the  State  as  well  as  its  property.  As  regards  the 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


13 

which,  like  an  incubus,  hangs  heavily  upon  us,  or  show  how 
and  for  what  purpose  a million  and  a half  or  more  of  our 
bonds  are  now,  like  Milton’s  angels,  floating  upon  the  vast 
abyss,  without  a parent,  a patron,  or  a friend,  for  which  the 
State  has  yet  received  no  compensation,  and  for  which 
none,  I believe,  is  expected.  Our  whole  financial  system 
seems  to  me,  gentlemen,  like 

“The  application 

Of  homoeopathic  medicines  to 

Arrest  the  earthquake  and  to  quench  volcanoes.” 

The  time,  however,  it  is  hoped,  will  come  when  some 
one  will  be  to  Illinois  her  guardian  angel — who,  as  a dis- 
tinguished senator  and  statesman  (Col.  Young,  of  NewYork) 
observes,  “will  confound  and  paralyze  the  congregated 
energies  of  corruption,  and  rescue  from  the  lowest  depths 
of  degradation  the  lost  credit  of  the  State;  who  will,  from 
under  the  huge  mass  of  documentary  rubbish,  disinter  the 
enormous  skull,  the  disjointed  vertebrae,  and  scattered 
bones  of  the  mammoth  debt  that  has  been  accumulated 
by  millions,  'and  bonds  therefor  poured  out  (sometimes 
without  consideration)  like  water,  till  the  drunkenness  of 
financial  debauchery  has  eventuated  in  delirium  tremens — 
some  one  who  will  collate,  describe,  systematize,  and  ar- 
range the  repulsive  fragments  of  this  fiscal  anatomy,  so  that 
its  frightful  skeleton  may  be  seen  at  one  view,  and  held  up 
in  all  its  enormities  to  the  public  gaze,  as  a memento  of 
the  past  and  a warning  to  the  future.” 

I have  heard  it  frequently  stated,  and  in  Chicago  too,  by 
men  of  wealth  and  standing,  from  whom  much  better  things 
are,  or  ought  to  have  been,  expected,  that  we  must  not 
scrutinize  these  things  too  closely,  for  peradventure  friends 
may  suffer.  Gracious  and  eternal  God  ! why  are  thy  bolts 
withheld  when  doctrines  such  as  these,  without  excuse  and 
without  apology,  escape  from  polluted  lips? — Such  doc- 
trines, however,  (thanks  to  heaven!)  meet  with  countenance 
from  none  but  knaves.  They  are  not  the  principles  of  pure 
democracy,  and  I hope  not  of  whiggery.  Let  no  such  man 
be  trusted.  He  is  an  enemy  to  his  country,  and  a traitor 
to  his  trust — a nuisance  to  his  party  and  an  outlaw  from  his 
God.  No  honor,  surely,  can  await  him  here.  Let  him 

City,  in  the  years  1840  and  1841,  Mr.  Thomas  Hoyne,  who  was  then 
the  City  Clerk , says : that  he  kept  and  revised  all  the  Tax  rolls  of  those 
two  years;  and  the  -whole  amount , real  estate  tax  or  revenue,  in  1841, 
was  Syooo!!  about  $8000  or  $9000  in  1842. 


14 


THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 


then  go  to  where  he  belongs,  where  his  talents  will  be  duly 
appreciated,  and  feed  for  hire  the  half-starved  swine  that 
prowl  about  hell’s  dormitory,  or  the  backdoor  of  mammon’s 
cellar  kitchen. 

‘‘Six  thousand  years  of  sorrow  have  well  nigh 
Fulfilled  their  tardy  and  disastrous  course,” 

Since  the  Almighty,  by  a deed  of  trust,  gave  Adam  and  his 
posterity  the  globe  we  inherit,  and  the  appurtenances  there- 
unto belonging — including  every  herb,  and  every  tree — save 
one,  and  every  fowl,  and  every  fish,  and  every  beast,  and 
every  living  thing  that  moveth  on  the  earth.  For  what 
purpose?  That  he  might  replenish  it,  and  subdue  it — that 
he  might,  as  in  the  case  of  Eden,  “dress  it  and  keep  it.”’ 
How,  gentlemen,  I ask,  have  we  discharged  that  trust?  An: 
answer  to  this  inquiry  can  hardly  be  expected  in  one  dis- 
course. Our  business,  therefore,  is  at  present  with  that 
portion  of  Adam’s  posterity  which  has  taken  up  its  resi- 
dence in  Chicago  and  its  vicinity. 

The  red  man  of  the  woods,  who  preceded  us  in  posses- 
sion here,  violated,  it  seems,  his  trust,  or  rather  neglected 
it,  and  when  the  bugle  notes  of  civilization  sounded  in  his. 
ears,  he  fled  far  away.  After  a possession  (as  presumed) 
of  several  centuries,  he  left  nothing  but  the  names  of  lakes 
and  rivers — of  mountains  and  of  plains,  to  mark  the  spot 
o’er  which  he  wandered.  I think,  therefore,  of  savage  man 
but  little — and  of  the  white  man,  who  is  a savage,  less.  It 
is  mind  alone  that  “makes  the  man,  the  want  of  it  the” — 
animal. 

That  portion  of  Adam’s  posterity  residing  here  is  now 
composed  of  matter  various  and  discordant.  A writer,  of 
some  eminence,  once,  as  we  are  told,  divided  mankind  into 
two  general  divisions — those  who  are  in  the  penitentiary 
and  those  who  are  out.  This  division  is  too  unequal  for 
any  use.  Were  perfect  justice  done  on  earth,  they  might 
perhaps  be  more  equal.  But,  as  it  is,  other  divisions  must 
be  adopted.  I have,  therefore,  thought  of  another  equally 
absurd,  and,  as  some  pretend,  equally  unequal — those  who 
are  are , and  those  who  are  not , their  own  worst  enemies. 

The  last,  to-wit : those  who  are  not  their  own  worst  ene- 
mies, I need  not  speak  of.  Of  them,  Christianity  has  care 
— a name  how  glorious — its  founder  in  rags — a mountain, 
as  Whitfield  said,  for  his  pulpit,  and  the  whole  arch  of  hea- 
ven for  his  sounding-board.  Its  apostles  uneducated  fisher- 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


1 5 


men — with  poverty  for  its  throne — a staff  for  its  sceptre — a. 
crown  of  thorns  for  its  diadem,  it  went  forth  conquering  and 
to  conquer.  Thrones  and  dominions,  principalities  and 
powers  fell  before  it,  and  Paganism,  at  its  approach,  dis- 
solved as  “flax  at  the  touch  of  fire.”  It  reached  at  length 
Chicago,  and  sixteen,  or  seventeen,  or  eighteen  churches 
mark  its  triumph. 

“ Who  is  this  that  comes  from  Eden? 

’Tis  the  Saviour,  now  victorious. 

Traveling  westward  in  his  might; 

’Tis  the  Saviour,  O how  glorious 
To  his  people  in  their  sight. 

Satan  conquered,  and  the  grave, 

Jesus  now  is  strong  to  save.” 

Those  who  are  their  own  worst  enemies  are  like  the  poly- 
pus : — divide  it  and  it  becomes  two  polipi — divide  it  again, 
and  yet  again,  the  same  result  succeeds.  Hence  the  divi- 
sion of  mankind  into  moral,  political,  and  religious  parties. 
Religious  parties — that  is,  pure  religious  parties,  it  is  true, 
are  anomalies.  We  mean  by  them  such  only  as  are  religious 
by  profession  merely — those,  as  Pollock  says : 

“ Who  put  a sixpence  in  the  urn 
Of  charity,  and  take  a shilling  out 
To  keep  it  sounding.” 

To  treat  of  each  would  far  exceed  the  time  and  space 
allotted  me.  I therefore  must  be  brief. 

Public  opinion,  we  are  told,  is  not  like  the  maiden  wooed, 
but  like  the  widow  won.  It  is  also  like  the  nettle — touch 
it  lightly  and  the  finger  bleeds;  grasp  it  firmly  with  a giant’s 
grasp,  and  it  to  the  pressure  yields,  and  in  the  hand  “harm- 
less as  dreams  of  babes  become.”  The  politician’s  temple 
stands,  we  are  informed,  upon  base  built  on  sand,  in  the 
centre  of  a wide  extended  prairie,  accessible  only  to  eagles 
and  to  reptiles.  "While  the  former  attain  its  summit  by  the 
boldness  of  their  flight,  the  latter  reach  the  same  object  by 
tortuous  paths,  themselves  with  slime  all  covered  over,  and 
they  in  their  turn  covering  those  who  aid  them  to  ascend. 

“ Unblest  by  virtue,  government  a league 
Becomes — a circling  junto  of  the  great, 

To  rob  by  law.” 

But,  gentlemen,  of  this  enough.  I may  hereafter  resume 
the  subject.  The  field  is  ample,  and  the  laborers  few.  Its 
portals,  however,  are  so  guarded  that  no  one  has  dared,  as 
yet,  to  enter  it.  It  is  time  for  some  one  to  begin.  A vic- 
tory would  be  certain. 


1 6 THE  PRESENT  AND  FUTURE 

When  Suwarrow  commanded  a Russian  army  of  some 
20,000,  upon  the  Turkish  border,  he  was  told  that  an  over- 
whelming force  was  gathering  to  attack  him.  Without 
waiting  for  its  concentration,  he  issued  an  order,  as  follows: 

“ I understand  there  are  but  50,000  Turks  opposed  to 
us,  and  50,000  more  within  a day’s  march.  It  were  better 
were  they  all  here,  so  that  they  might  all  be  beaten  on  the 
same  day,  but  as  it  is  otherwise,  we  may  as  well  begin  with 
these.” 

An  attack  was  made  next  morning,  and  the  50,000  Turks 
cut  to  pieces;  the  other  50,000  arrived  in  the  evening,  and 
w“ere  cut  to  pieces  also. 

Northern  Illinois  has  never  been  so  prosperous  as  now. 
Industry  never  so  abundant;  and  economy  (except  adver- 
sity compelling)  so  prevalent  before.  This  prosperity,  how- 
ever, is  owing  not  to  speculation,  nor  legislation,  but  to  the 
might,  as  Cowper  says,  “ that  slumbers  in  the  peasant’s 
arms.”  The  efforts,  the  united  efforts  of  a whole  people 
judiciously  directed. 

I may,  and  probably  shall  be,  charged  “with  using  up  all 
the  big  I’s  in  this  discourse,  and  leaving,  therefore,  none  for 
you.”  The  allusion  some  may,  and  some  may  not,  under- 
stand. Permit  me  then  to  explain: 

Some  years  ago,  Governor  Reynolds,  of  Illinois,  usually 
called  “the  Old  Ranger,”  became  a candidate  for  governor 
in  this  State.  Gov.  Edwards,  who  had  been  elected  some- 
time before,  became  also  a candidate,  at  the  same  time,  for 
re-election.  Reynolds,  it  is  said,  was  illiterate;  Edwards, 
“a  gentleman  and  a scholar.”  The  former,  in  a letter, 
speaking  of  himself,  used,  we  are  told,  a small  i instead  of 
of  a large  I.  This  being  public,  became  a subject  of  no 
little  merriment  to  his  opponent,  and  was,  unfortunately, 
alluded  to  in  a stump  speech,  by  Gov.  Edwards.  The  old 
Ranger,  however,  in  his  reply,  observed  that  his  opponent 
had  used  up  all  the  big  I’s,  and  left  none  for  him;  he  had 
therefore  used  the  small  i from  pure  necessity.  It  needs 
no  prophet’s  ken  to  tell  who  gained  the  palm. 

It  is  not,  however,  true  that  all  the  big  I’s  are  yet  ab- 
sorbed. Enough,  I apprehend,  remain  for  all.  You  will, 
therefore,  1 hope  and  trust,  come  forward  this  evening,  and 
take  the  “ Sheridan  Oath.” 

This  allusion  may  to  some  be  as  inexplicable  as  that 
already  made  to  the  “Old  Ranger.”  Allow  me,  then,  to 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHICAGO. 


1 7 


•explain  this  also.  Richard  Brinsley  Sheridan,  who  after- 
wards became  one  of  the  most  finished  orators  in  Britain, 
in  some  of  his  first  attempts  was  unsuccessful.  On  “break- 
ing down”  the  third  or  fourth  time,  and  being  rallied  by  his 
boon  companions,  he  tartly  replied : “I  know  it  is  in  me, 
and,  by  God,  it  shall  come  out.” 

Few  know  their  capacity  for  public  speaking,  until  the 
.attempt  is  made  and  frequently  repeated.  The  opportunity 
here  presented  is  a good  one.  The  whole  world  (for  sub- 
jects) is  before  us,  our  room  convenient,  our  audience  re- 
spectable, and  those  who  neglect  it  must,  of  course,  be 
exceedingly  reprehensible. 

A few  words,  gentlemen,  on  the  philosophy  of  human 
life,  and  I will  close. 

Charles  James  Fox,  the  celebrated  English  orator  and 
;statesman,  in  speaking  of  this  world,  observes: 


Tis  a very  good  world  that  we  live  in. 

To  lend,  to  spend,  or  to  give  in; 

But  to  beg,  to  borrow,  or  get  a man's  own, 

'Tis  the  very  worst  world  that  ever  was  known." 


I do  not,  gentlemen,  subscribe  to  all  this.  The  above 
must,  I think,  have  been  written  by  Fox  in  his  desponding 
moments.  My  sentiments  upon  this  subject  are  better  ex- 
pressed in  the  following  lines,  which  have  just  been  handed 
me  to  read  on  this  occasion;  to  the  views  therein  expressed, 
I subscribe  and  recommend  them  to  you  for  deliberate  con- 
sideration. They  are  entitled  “ The  World  as  it  Is.” 


This  world  is  not  so  bad  a world 
As  some  would  like  to  make  it; 
Though  whether  good,  or  whether  bad. 
Depends  on  how  we  take  it. 

For  if  we  scold  and  fret  all  day, 

From  dewey  morn  till  even, 

This  world  will  ne’er  afford  to  man 
A foretaste  here  of  heaven. 


This  word  is  quite  a pleasant  world, 
In  rain  or  pleasant  weather. 

If  people  would  but  learn  to  live 
In  harmony  together: 

Nor  cease  to  burst  the  kindling  bond 
By  love  and  peace  cemented, 

And  learn  that  best  of  lessons  yet, 
To  always  be  contented. 


This  world  in  truth’s  as  good  a world 
As  e’er  was  known  to  any, 

Who  have  not  seen  another  yet. 

And  these  are  very  many. 

And  if  the  men,  and  women  too, 
Have  plenty  of  employment, 

Those  surely  must  be  hard  to  please 
Who  cannot  find  enjoyment. 


Then  were  the  world  a pleasant  world. 
And  pleasant  folks  were  in  it, 

The  day  would  pass  most  pleasantly, 
To  those  who  thus  began  it. 

To  all  the  nameless  grievances. 
Brought  on  by  borrowed  troubles. 
Would  prove,  as  certainly  the}''  are, 

A mass  of  empty  bubbles  ! 


Dr.  Raley,  a celebrated  divine,  the  author  of  “ Moral 
Philosophy,”  “Natural  Theology,”  and  several  other  works 
of  the  highest  reputation,  used  to  say,  that  “A  man  must 
play  the  fool  about  one-half  of  his  time  in  order  to  avoid 
being  a fool  for  the  residue.” 

The  celebrated  Robert  Flail,  whose  sermons  many  of  you 


iS 


PRESENT  AND  FUTURE  OF  CHICAGO. 


have  doubtless  read  and,  if  so,  admired,  being  once  repri- 
manded by  a dignified  though  simple  clergyman,  for  his 
levity  of  manner  out  of  the  pulpit,  replied,  “There,  brother,, 
you  and  I differ  ; you  talk  nonsense  in  the  pulpit  and  I out 
of  it.” 

“Gravity,”  says  a distinguished  French  author,  “is  a 
mysterious  invention  or  contrivance  of  the  body  to  conceal 
defects  in  the  brain.” 

It  is  hardly  worth  our  while  then  to  affect  gravity  or  dig- 
nity in  cases  where  it  is  not  required,  and  where  an  attempt 
to  do  so  would  make  us  only  ridiculous.  On  proper  occa- 
sions, I have  no  doubt  both  will  be  regarded  by  every 
member  of  this  Lyceum,  not  only  here  but  elsewhere,  and 
“dignity  of  soul”  always. 

I thank  you,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  for  the  patience  you 
have  manifested  on  this  occasion,  and  promise  never  more 
to  offend  in  like  manner,  so  long. 

I have  now,  as  Cowper  observes, 

“ Roved  for  fruit, 

Roved  far  and  gathered  much:  Some  harsh  ’tis  true. 

Plucked  from  the  thorns  and  briars  of  reproof, 

But  wholesome,  well  digested." 

And  can  I think  with  Scott,  surely  say,  that 

‘‘To  his  promise  just, 

Vich-Alpine  hath  discharged  his  trust. 

Hath  led  thee  safe,  through  watch  and  ward. 

Far  past  Clan-Alpine's  outmost  guard." 

I propose  now,  gentlemen,  to  leave  you  at  Coilantogle 
ford. 

“And  thou  must  keep  thee  with  thy  sword.” 

Let  me  say  to  you,  on  this  occasion,  as  Campbell  does 
on  another: 

“Wave  Munich,  all  your  banners  wave. 

And  charge  with  all  your  chivalry." 

And  should  you  in  the  contest  fall,  remember  with  old 
Homer; 

“ Such  honors  Ilion  to  her  hero  paid, 

And  peaceful  slept  the  mighty  Hector’s  shade." 

But,  gentlemen,  with  proper  efforts  you  will  not  fail.  It 
is  impossible,  wholly  impossible.  Allow  me  then  to  close 
in  one  of  Scott’s  beautiful  strains,  which  describes  your 
situation,  condition,  and  duty,  as  well  as  mine: 

“‘Charge,  Chester,  charge!  On,  Stanley,  on!’ 

Were  the  last  words  of  Marmion." 


Rise  and  Progress  of  Chicago.. 


The  moon  shines  dimly  just  after  the  sun  has  set.  To 
give  reminiscences  of  the  early  history  of  Chicago  in  a 
form  that  would  be  likely  to  interest  you,  particularly  after 
having  listened  to  the  lofty  aspirations  and  eloquent  dis- 
coursings  of  a Wentworth,  Bross,  Balestier,  and  others  who 
have  favored  us  upon  this  subject  with  gems  from  the 
well-filled  storehouse  of  their  polished  and  cultivated  in- 
tellects, is  a task  that  I might  well  shrink  from,  and  be  a 
silent  admirer  of  the  rich  developments  of  these  faithful 
biographers,  rather  than  attempt  any  elaborate  description 
of  its  early  progress  myself;  but,  however  much  may  have 
been  said,  there  is  still  room  for  the  further  unfolding  of 
its  primitive  doings  and  wonderful  strides  to  popularity 
and  greatness. 

It  is  not  our  purpose  to  trace  the  present  popularity  and 
important  advancement  of  Chicago,  from  the  early  explorers 
of  the  great  North-west,  down  through  past  ages,  to  the 
probable  discovery  of  a point  on  Lake  Michigan,  that  was 
destined  to  be,  in  the  distant  future,  the  Metropolis  of  the 
Universe,  that,  to  our  mind,  would  be  too  chimerical,  and 
fraught  with  too  much  uncertainty  to  command  respectful 
consideration;  but,  as  near  as  memory  will  permit,  to  “hold 
the  mirror  up  to  nature,”  and  relate  some  of  the  more  promi- 
nent features  of  its  progress  within  the  memory  of  its  “old- 
est inhabitants”  now  resident  among  us,  many  of  whom 
deserve  honorable  mention;  we  might  also  name  those  who 
have  done  much  toward  enhancing  the  growth,  importance, 
and  prosperity  of  Chicago;  but  where  all  have  done  so  well 
it  would  be  invidious  to  particularize,  we  will,  therefore, 
content  ourself  by  at  once  giving  our  personal  experience 
of  the  early  rise  and  growth  of  the  City  of  the  West. 


20 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS 


Let  us,  for  a moment,  remove  the  veil,  and  take  a re- 
trospect of  the  past  forty-five  years,  we  will  then  have 
disclosed  to  view  a barren  waste,  the  abode  of  the  timid 
fawn,  the  deer,  the  wolf,  and  tawny  Indian,  whose  bark 
alone  skimmed  along  these  majestic  lakes,  claiming  the 
ownership  of  their  pure  and  limpid  waters.  Now  mark 
the  change ! These  lofty  spires  that  rise  to  their  graceful 
and  giddy  heights;  the  busy  mill  and  spacious  warehouse; 
the  stately  mansion  and  lowly  cot,  around  whose  slender 
portals  the  woodbine  entwines  its  caressing  tendrils,  We 
might  extend  the  view,  and  admire  the  dottings  of  civili- 
zation and  culture  in  the  innumerable  cottages  and  pre- 
tentious farm-houses  that  nestle  among  the  tall  grass  and 
fringe  the  borders  of  our  rivers  and  woodlands,  but  our 
purpose  just  now  is  a review  of  the  early  history  and 
doings  of  Chicago. 

When  we  first  landed  on  these  shores,  our  impression 
was  that  it  might  be  a place  of  some  importance,  were  it 
not  so  low,  and  I ventured  to  record  my  hastily-conceived 
views  upon  the  register  of  the  hotel  where  we  remained 
for  a few  hours;  my  entry  ran  something  like  this:  “April 
20,  1832.  James  A.  Marshall,  Ogdensburgh,  New  York; 
this  might  be  a place  of  some  importance,  but  the  ground 
is  too  low."  Two  or  three  hours  afterward,  I chanced  to 
look  over  the  quire  of  paper  dubbed  a register,  and  found 
added  to  my  remarks,  “Solomon  2d.”  I looked  wise  for 
a moment,  but  felt  that  my  talent  had  been  over-estimated, 
and  have  never  since  undertaken  to  be  wiser  than  my 
friend,  whom,  I afterward  learned,  honored  me  with  that 
illustrious  appellation.  I found  the  place  too  small  for  me 
to  hope  to  make  anything  by  my  profession  (a  physician), 
the  garrison  being  supplied  with  one  of  the  best  in  the 
country  in  the  person  of  Dr.  Philip  Maxwell,  so  we  shipped 
at  once  for  Navarino,  Green  Bay,  Wis.,  where  we  landed 
in  time  to  see  three  soldiers  branded  and  drummed  out 
of  camp,  also  to  see  the  payment  of  7000  Indians  by  Col. 
Boyd.  I remained  at  Navarino  until  August  5th,  1834, 
when  1 sailed  in  the  Schooner  Nancy  Dousman,  Capt. 
Saunders,  for  Chicago.  After  a very  boisterous  passage, 
we  arrived  on  the  15th  of  the  same  month,  where  I have 
resided,  with  the  exception  of  one  year  only,  ever  since. 

To  undertake  the  recital  of  all,  or  even  many  of  the 


OF  CHICAGO. 


21 


prominent  causes  of  Chicago’s  rise  and  wonderful  progress 
within  the  past  forty-five  years,  and  do  justice  to  the  sub- 
ject, would  occupy  more  time  than  could  be  devoted  to 
one  lecture,  unless  it  were  prolonged  to  an  unreasonable 
length,  and  thereby  losing  much  of  its  intended  usefulness; 
we  will,  therefore,  to  relieve  our  subject  from  the  dull 
monotony  incident  to  the  recital  of  statistical  forms,  for 
the  time  being,  fancy  ourselves  in  an  artist’s  studio,  invit- 
ing him,  with  canvas,  paint,  and  brush,  to  create  his  ideal 
of  a great  and  marvelous  city,  of  less  than  half  a century’s 
growth,  drawing  from  the  resources  of  his  imaginative 
genius  all  that  could  give  it  eclat  and  beauty,  his  subject 
a low,  uninviting  marsh,  a sluggish  stream  on  one  side,  a 
bold,  majestic  lake  in  front,  an  extended  prairie  behind; 
with  this  unseemly  background  we  will  watch  his  progress 
in  filling  out  the  picture.  On  the  right,  as  you  face  the 
north,  is  a group  of  one -story  block  houses,  surrounded 
by  a high  fence;  the  two-story  buildings  at  the  east  of  the 
hollow  square  are  the  quarters  of  the  commandant  and 
officers;  that  hip-roofed,  square  block-house,  with  a row  of 
small  port-holes,  is  the  look-out,  where  sentinels  are  placed 
to  watch  the  approach  of  hostile  Indians,  the  lower  part 
used  as  a guard-house — that  is  Fort  Dearborn;  the  river 
meandering  its  way  around  the  east  side  of  the  fort,  run- 
ning southward,  mingling  with  the  lake  at  Madison  street, 
east  of  which  is  a peninsula  connecting  the  north  and 
south  sides  of  the  river  (and  was  the  only  point,  forty-three 
years  ago,  of  ingress  and  egress  for  vessels  to  and  from 
Lake  Michigan,  until  March,  1833,  when  the  spring  freshet, 
accompanied  by  a violent  storm,  forced  a direct  channel 
to  the  lake,  which  was  afterward  dredged  and  piers  run 
out,  by  direction  of  the  Government,  and  which  now  forms 
the  fine  harbor  for  the  white-winged  messengers  that  enrich 
our  country  by  their  precious  burdens).  We  will  accom- 
pany our  artist  a little  farther;  at  the  left  of  the  fort,  and 
running  west,  are  a few  modest  structures,  designed,  appar- 
ently, for  the  double  purpose  of  stores  and  dwellings,  ex- 
tending west  as  far  as  Dearborn  street  (there  the  business 
portion  of  the  village,  for  a time,  rested;  south  of  Lake 
and  east  of  Dearborn  streets,  for  three  or  four  blocks,  was 
a corn  and  potato  field.  The  principal  forwarding  business 
was  done  on  the  north  side  of  the  Chicago  River  for  several 


22 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS 


years,  but  the  personal  interest  and  enterprise  of  a few  gen- 
tlemen residing  on  the  South  Side,  who  had  considerable 
real  estate  unoccupied,  changed  the  channel  of  business  by 
building  warehouses  on  that  side  of  the  river,  after  which  it 
was  transacted  there;  indeed,  the  North  Side  never  recovered 
its  former  business  prestige,  but  contented  itself  by  build- 
ing palatial  residences,  and  being  considered  the  place  par 
excellence , and  the  home  of  the  elite  of  Chicago).  We  next 
observe  a ferry  crossing  the  river  at  Dearborn  street,  con- 
nected by  a rope  attached  to  a windlass  at  each  side  of 
the  river,  and  a scow  in  the  centre,  propelled  by  hand 
power,  placed  there  for  the  convenience  of  the  residents 
of  both  sides  of  the  river.  This  rude  piece  of  mechanism 
remained  there  until  a Mr.  Norton  erected  a draw-bridge, 
spanning  the  river  at  the  same  place  where  the  old  scow 
had  done  such  good  service  for  so  long  a time,  but  whose 
occupation,  like  Othello’s,  was  now  gone.  It  was  igno- 
miniously  torn  from  its  moorings  to  make  room  for  the 
unwieldy  structure  that  supplanted  it.  From  this  time 
onward  the  city  grew  rapidly,  and  from  this  time  may  be 
dated  the  commencement  of  its  now  universal  popularity. 
We  will  now  leave  our  artist  to  finish  the  picture  as  it 
may  best  suit  his  own  ideality.  Some  new  beauty  is  now 
developed  — some  wonderful  advancement  made  in  the 
growth  and  importance  of  the  painted  city;  the  unfinished 
streets  show  marks  of  improvement,  lined  with  palatial 
business  structures,  ponderous  warehouses,  elegant  and 
elaborate  places  of  worship,  halls  of  justice  clothed  in 
Oriental  magnificence,  school -houses  with  substantial  ex- 
teriors are  brought  to  view,  avenues  laid  out  and  lined 
with,  costly  marble  mansions,  parks  and  boulevards  gem 
the  environs  with  rare  exdtics  and  elaborately  ornamental, 
varied,  and  beautiful  foliage,  the  streets  are  as  smooth  as 
parlor  floors ; nothing  is  left  undone  that  imaginative  genius 
could  invent  to  make  a city  that  would  be  the  wonder 
and  admiration  of  the  civilized  world.  The  picture  com- 
pleted is  heralded  beyond  the  seas,  sent  broadcast  among 
the  cities  of  the  east,  and  presented  to  the  wealthy,  the 
intellectual,  and  the  enterprising  of  our  own  land;  they 
shrug  their  shoulders  knowingly,  acknowledging  its  great 
beauty  and  the  consummate  ideality  of  the  artist,  but 
think  that  he  has  devoted  too  much  to  the  imaginative 


OF  CHICAGO. 


23 


to  assume  a reality  among  the  cities  of  the  world,  turning 
from  what  they  supposed  the  visionary  imaginings  of  a 
fertile  brain  and  elaborate  brush  to  something  more  sub- 
stantial and  real.  The  artist  invites  their  presence  to 
witness  the  last  finishing  touch,  then  with  unbounded  con- 
fidence in  himself,  he  traces  the  name  Chicago.  The 
multitude  exclaims,  “It  is  no  ideal,  but  a veritable  reality, 
and  now  stands  the  wonder  of  the  universe.” 

Thus  we  have  presented,  in  a feeble  way,  but  a bird’s- 
eye  view  of  the  germ  of  our  present  great  Metropolis;  its 
early  outlook  by  no  means  calculated  to  encourage  the 
enterprising  explorer,  has  been  brought  to  view;  and 
watching  with  marked  interest  the  unparalleled  improve- 
ment on  every  hand,  we  are  awed  into  silence,  and  dare 
not  prophesy  its  future  greatness.  As  the  sturdy  farmer 
scans  his  field  but  lately  cleared  of  a cumbrous  undergrowth 
of  shrubs  and  thickets,  the  ground  untilled,  the  seed  un- 
sown— glowing  prospects  of  a rich  harvest  are  least  sug- 
gesting, but,  when  with  implements  of  agriculture  and  deter- 
mined will,  he  delves  and  toils  from  morn  till  night,  faith 
spurs  him  on,  and  slowly,  but  surely,  the  planted  seed, 
the  budding  stalk,  and  waving  grain,  insure  a harvest,  and 
recompense  is  nigh.  So  to  the  early  settler,  Chicago  stood 
desolate  and  alone,  the  undergrowth  of  uncivilized  Indian 
habitation  lent  an  uninviting  aspect  to  the  eastern  world, 
and  advancement,  for  the  time  being,  seemed  impossible; 
but  the  rich  soil  of  natural  advantages  was  unearthed  by 
the  foresight  of  our  pioneers,  the  seed  planted,  then  arose 
in  plenteous  harvest,  the  wonderful  products  of  a new-made 
vineyard,  until  now,  after  a growth  of  forty  years,  the  City 
sketched  upon  the  canvas,  loses  its  primitive  indentity.  and 
stands  before  the  world  a marvel. 

This  picture,  however,  portrays  but  the  outward  part  of 
Chicago's  greatness,  it  is  the  internal  workings  that  have 
given  it  the  wonderful  celebrity  that  it  now  enjoys.  Let  us, 
for  a moment,  glance  at  some  of  these  causes  which  have  led 
to  and  done  so  much  toward  its  advancement.  First,  its 
location,  being  at  the  head  of  lake  navigation  and  the  only 
prominent  lake  frontage  that  the  State  of  Illinois  has  for 
the  receipt  and  transportation  of  her  vast  agricultural 
and  mineral  resources,  thereby  enjoying  some  State  pride. 
Again,  the  immense  lumber  interests  form  a large  share  of 


24 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS 


consideration;  from  a beginning,  within  the  time  indicated 
at  the  commencement  of  these  remarks,  of  100,000,000 
feet,  it  has  now  increased  to  more  than  1,500,000,000  feet 
per  annum.  The  cereal  products,  too,  which  here  find  a 
market  and  outlet,  have  increased  from  5000  bushels  in 
the  year  1834  to  more  than  15,000,000  bushels  per  annum; 
nor  is  this  all,  the  pork  product  advancing  from  500  to 
over  1,500,000  hogs  packed  every  year,  aside  from  those' 
used  for  home  consumption.  In  our  monetary  exchange, 
how  wonderful  the  advance,  from  $25,000  per  week,  which 
at  that  time  indicated  marked  progress,  it  now  requires 
more  than  $20,000,000  to  do  a week’s  financial  business. 
The  advancement  in  general  business,  too,  is  well  calcu- 
lated to  amaze  the  mere  casual  observer,  from  an  insignifi- 
cant sum  of  a few -thousand  dollars  required  to  transact 
our  annual  business  forty-three  years  ago,  the  enormous 
sum  of  more  than  $200,000,000  is  now  necessary  to  sat- 
isfy the  demands  of  the  thousands  who  look  to  Chicago 
for  their  supplies.  Out  of  the  fifteen  billions  of  dollars  an- 
nually required  to  feed  and  clothe  the  people  of  the  United 
States,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  millions  of  that  sum  is 
necessary  to  feed  and  clothe  the  citizens  of  Chicago  for  the 
same  time. 

We  might  go  on,  ad  libitum , enumerating  the  capacious 
and  unparalleled  increase  in  the  innumerable  branches  of 
industry  that  are  adding  so  much  to  the  importance,  and 
expanding  the  area  of  our  city  to  its  present  ponderous 
proportions;  but  enough  has  already  been  noticed  to  sat- 
isfy, without  doubt,  the  most  sceptical  of  its  admirers. 
But  perhaps  the  most  wonderful  rise  in  values  has  taken 
place  in  real  estate;  property  that,  in  1834,  sold  for  $200 
per  lot  of  50  feet,  has  been  sold  within  the  past  year 
for  $2000  per  foot,  being  an  advance  of  $99,800  from 
the  original  purchase;  this,  however,  cannot  be  considered 
a fair  criterion  of  the  general  advancement  of  real  estate,, 
nevertheless,  the  increase  has  been,  upon  an  average,, 
since  the  time  specified,  about  four  hundred  per  cent, 
of  its  original  value;  still,  it  fluctuated  more  or  less  until 
the  commencement  of  the  Canal  land  sales  in  1848,  since 
then,  real  estate  has  been  reckoned  according  to  prices 
at  which  it  sold  at  that  time,  and  for  a number  of  years 
afterward,  sales  were  negotiated  upon  Canal  time,  or 


OF  CHICAGO. 


2 C 

^ j 

Canal  terms,  as  it  was  called — that  was,  one-fourth  cash, 
balance  in  one,  two,  and  three  years,  with  interest  at 
six  per  cent,  per  annum,  payable  annually  in  advance. 
The  wealth  of  some  of  our  millionaires  may,  therefore, 
be  dated  from  that  time,  as  few  could  boast  of  more 
than  their  thousands  until  the  Canal  sales,  which  placed 
an  estimated  value  upon  real  estate,  furnishing  a new 
impetus  to  all  branches  of  business.  To  the  Canal  sales, 
then,  of  1848  to  1853,  when  more  than  $3,000,000  worth 
of  property  was  sold  (all  of  which  I sold  at  public  sale), 
is  due  the  credit  of  advancing  the  pecuniary  interests  of 
our  fellow-citizens'  more  than  any  other  circumstance  since 
the  foundation  of  the  city  government.  Taking  advantage 
of  the  low  prices  at  which  Canal  property  sold,  they  pur- 
chased, and  having  the  sagacity,  some  of  them,  to  hold 
on  to  their  purchases,  they  increased  in  value  upon  their 
hands,  and  made  them  rich.  The  peculiar  location,  superior 
agricultural  and  internal  advantages,  railroad  facilities,  water 
communication,  and  enterprise  of  our  citizens  combined, 
is  what  has  given  to  Chicago  its  eminence  at  home  and 
abroad,  and  not , as  some  have  supposed,  the  sagacity  and 
enterprise  of  a few  of  the  more  fortunate  of  our  fellow-citi- 
zens, who,  for  want  of  purchasers  at  the  time  that  they  de- 
sired to  sell,  were  obliged  to  hold  on  to  their  property,  there- 
by becoming  wealthy,  more  by  reason  of  their  misfortune — 
or  rather,  their  good  fortune — in  being  unable  to  sell. 
Nevertheless,  great  credit  is  due  them  for  their  liberality 
in  using  their  wealth  in  the  erection  of  elegant  structures, 
and  in  otherwise  lending  their  aid  in  beautifying  and  adorn- 
ing our  city. 

Many,  however,  who  took  a prominent  part  in  the  build- 
ing up  and  advancing  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  our 
City,  have  passed  away,  leaving  names  not  recorded  in  the 
activities  of  life,  but  graven  indelibly  upon  the  memories  of 
their  fellow-citizens,  and  are  justly  extolled  for  their  upright 
lives  and  many  virtues.  Those  of  the  pioneers  who  remain 
to  witness  the  further  growth  of  their  favorite  and  patron 
city  speak  gently  of  the  departed,  but,  with  pride  in  their 
name  and  tireless  enterprise,  point  to  the  vast  resources  of 
our  wonderful  City,  and  say,  “these  are  their  eulogies,  it 
needs  no  marble  column  to  tell  of  their  greatness,  their 


26 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS 


deeds  are  written  in  the  early  annals  of  famed  Chicago.” 
Many  of  them  did  not  live  to  witness  its  sudden  destruc- 
tion and  succeeding  rapid  progress.  But,  in  the  dawning 
years  of  our  City’s  eminence,  was  established — the  energy, 
strength,  and  ground  work  of  the  enterprise  that  bid  it 
rise. 

The  great  and  unprecedented  increase  of  our  population 
may  be,  and,  perhaps,  is,  attributable  to  the  widespread  in- 
formation given  of  its  superior  advantages,  particularly  so 
since  the  fire  of  1871. 

A catastrophy  that  will  never  be  obliterated  from  the 
memory  of  those  who  witnessed  the  awful  spectacle,  a scene 
of  grandeur  and  sublimity  unparalleled  in  the  history  of  the 
world’s  conflagrations, — the  accumulated  wealth  of  many 
years  swept  away  in  an  hour ; the  millionnaire  of  yesterday, 
to-day  walks  hand  in  hand  with  poverty;  the  prospects  of 
a competence  in  after  years  silenced  forever.  Thus  we 
contemplated  when  viewing  the  fire  of  Oct.  9,  1871.  After 
the  great  holocaust  had  given  way  to  smouldering  debris , 
with  others,  we  strolled  among  the  ruins,  meeting  at  almost 
every  step  some  well-known  friend,  whose  life’s  earnings 
had  been  sacrificed  through  the  carelessness  of  irresponsi- 
ble parties.  One  friend  in  particular,  who  had  been  one 
of  the  most  unfortunate  of  the  wealthy  men  of  our  City. 
I thus  accosted,  after  offering  my  sympathy:  “Mr.  C***, 
you  must  be  one  of  the  heaviest  losers  by  the  fire;”  he 
smiled  pleasantly,  and  answerd,  “I  have  lost  heavily,  it 
is  true,  but  I am  not  discouraged;  in  ten  years,  Chi- 
cago will  be  a greater  City  than  it  ever  was,  and  I shall  do 
my  share  to  make  it  so;”  and  he  has  kept  his  word.  From 
that  time  onward,  the  City  was  the  centre  of  interest  and 
attraction.  Many  who  came  were  deeply  interested  in  what 
they  saw,  and  were  conquered  by  the  veritable  facts  visible 
before  them,  and  not  only  remained  themselves,  but  advised 
their  friends  to  come  to  this  eldorado  of  the  west;  the  result, 
as  shown,  is,  that  since  the  time  stated,  our  population 
has  increased  a thousand-fold,  from  500  inhabitants  forty- 
three  years  ago,  we  have  now  more  than  5007000,  accord- 
ing to  estimates  recently  made,  and  still  they  come.  Our 
public  school-houses — or  rather,  our  school-house — then 
contained  less  than  100  pupils;  now,  more  than  40,000 


OF  CHICAGO. 


27 


children  congregate  and  occupy  seats  provided  for  them 
in  our  commodious  and  imposingly-built  public  school 
edifices,  fitting  these  thousands  of  immortal  minds  for  use- 
fulness and  honor,  preparing  them  to  take  part  in  the  great 
panorama  of  life.  Aside  from  this  formidable  array  of 
young  ideas  that  sip  knowledge  from  the  public  fountain, 
there  are  a number  of  private  institutions,  colleges,  and 
seminaries,  occupied  by  some  thousands  of  the  children 
whose  parents  prefer  this  manner  of  instruction.  Thus,  it 
will  be  seen,  that  while  we  have  been  engaged,  and  seem- 
ingly bound  to  the  all-absorbing  influence  of  gain,  the 
rising  generation  has  not  been  forgotten,  means  have  been 
provided  for  the  ample  development  of  their  mental  facul- 
ties, intellectual  aspirations,  and  moral  culture.  All  honor 
is  due  to  our  sagacious  law  makers  for  these  timely  safe- 
guards. May  free  schools,  free  speech,  and  a free  press 
continue  to  be  the  law  of  the  land,  although  the  latter  has 
often  been  abused  by  the  injudicious  management  of  un- 
thinking and  unprincipled  men,  nevertheless,  it  had  better 
be  so  than  to  interfere  with  its  freedom. 

A due  and  proper  regard  for  moral  and  religious  rights 
is  incumbent  upon  all  good  citizens;  the  free  discussion 
of  their  favorite  dogmas  is  allowable  throughout  the  length 
and  breadth  of  our  land,  and  there  let  it  remain — further 
recognition  is  dangerous  to  the  peace  and  well-being  of 
our  country,  as  well  as  to  our  individual  privileges. 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  these  many  years  of  pros- 
perity and  wonderful  advancement  have  been  allowed  to 
pass  without  some  intervening  incidents,  which,  at  the  time, 
were  fraught  with  more  or  less  amusement  and  enjoyment. 
Although  time  has  transformed  the  ambitious  and  ever- 
restless  youth  into  matured  manhood,  and  some  into  de- 
clining life,  yet,  in  calling  the  roll  of  time  backward , we 
find  recorded  many  laughable  and  ludicrous  incidents.  We 
will  omit  several  amusing  anecdotes  for  want  of  time  to 
relate  them;  there  are  a few,  however,  which  I think  that 
I shall  always  remember.  Many  of  our  older  settlers  will 
recollect  the  old  Presbyterian  Church,  located  near  the  S.- 
W.  corner  of  Clark  and  Lake  streets.  We  were  in  the  habit 
then,  as  now,  of  holding  Wednesday  evening  prayer-meet- 
ings; that  most  excellent  man,  Rev.  Jeremiah  Porter,  had 
left  us,  in  his  place  was  a dashing,  eloquent  young  preacher, 


28 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS 


bran-new  from  college,  but  entirely  unfitted  to  occupy  the 
position  he  was  called  to  fill.  After  these  meetings  the 
pastor  would  hasten  from  the  speaker’s  desk  and  offer  his 
services,  as  a general  thing,  to  one  of  the  prettiest  young 
ladies  present.  Of  course,  he  was  rarely,  if  ever,  refused. 
Upon  the  particular  evening  in  question,  he  approached  a 
young  lady  of  exceeding  beauty,  proffering  his  services  as 
chaperon , which  were  accepted.  At  the  same  time,  I had 
the  honor  of  escorting  a near  relative  of  the  lady  alluded 
to,  and  for  whose  domicile  we  were  all  bound,  the  party 
of  the  first  part  taking  the  lead;  the  night  was  extremely 
dark,  and,  not  having  the  advantage  of  street  lamps  and 
gas-light,  we  had  to  fed  our  way  along;  it  was  just  after 
a very  profuse  rain,  our  streets  — without  sidewalks  or 
any  such  thing,  — were  very  unpleasant  thoroughfares. — 
We  had  not  proceeded  far,  when  we  heard  a shriek  from 
the  young  lady,  and  an  “ Oh,  dear  me ! Where  are  we 
going?”  from  the  reverend  gentleman.  Another  shriek, 
then  one  more,  still  louder,  en  concert , proceeded  from  out 
the  more  than  Egyptian-darkness,  when  the  lady  at  my  side 
exclaimed,  in  alarm,  “Mr.  Marshall,  what  is  the  matter?” 

“Oh,  nothing  more,”  I replied,  “than  that  Mr.  has 

led  Miss into  that  slough  just  opposite  your  house.” 

The  fact  was,  in  crossing  the  street,  as  they  supposed,  the 
night  being  so  very  dark,  they  walked  straight  into  the 
slough  that  extended  quite  across  the  street  and  nearly 
half  way  down  the  block;  into  it  they  went,  until  they 
were  nearly  up  to  their  waists  in  mud  and  water.  The 
more  they  tried  to  extricate  themselves,  the  deeper  they 
got  into  the  mire;  finally,  at  the  suggestion  of  the  lady 
whom  I was  accompanying,  I told  them  to  stand  perfectly 
still  until  I could  get  a lantern,  which  I succeeded  in  doing 
in  a very  short  time,  when  I held  the  light  up,  so  that  we 
could  see  them  and  they  view  themselves,  you  ought  to 
have  seen  the  look  that  girl  gave  me  (in  the  meantime 
the  lady  at  my  side  had  her  mouth  filled  with  linen  cam- 
bric to  keep  from  screaming  right  out),  then,  half  laughing 
and  half  crying,  she  paddled  her  own  canoe  until  she 
reached  terra  firrna , then  rushed  for  her  home,  which  was 
not  moi'e  than  fifty  feet  from  them,  nor  had  it  been  any 
of  the  time,  although  they  had  been  skirmishing  in  various 
directions.  Meanwhile,  the  clerical  gentleman  had  drawn 


OF  CHICAGO. 


29 


himself  out,  covered  with  mud.  Such  a countenance  ! — it 
was  a perfect  black  and  tan;  he  shook  himself,  bade  us 
good  night,  and  left  for  his  study.  It  may  be  of  interest 
to  some  to  know  that  the  slough  was  located  on  Clark 
street,  between  Lake  and  South  Water  streets. 

Many  very  amusing  incidents  occurred,  which  are  worthy 
of  recital,  but  a few  more  must  suffice.  One,  I remember, 
was  of  a young  lady  crossing  one  of  our  principal  streets, 
the  way  seemed  clear,  so  she  tripped  along  very  gracefully 
until  she  had  almost  reached  the  opposite  side,  when  the 
crust,  which  had  formed  from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  gave 
way,  and  down  she  began  to  go — down,  down,  down,  until 
she  had  gone  about  as  far  down  as  she  could,  and  was 
looking  pitifully  around  for  help  from  some  source.  A 
gentleman  near  by,  observing  her  predicament,  hastened 
to  her  rescue,  and  extricated  the  fair  lady  from  her  perilous 
position.  You  may  be  sure  she  was  not  as  tidy  when 
she  again  touched  solid  foundation  as  when  she  started  to 
cross  the  street.  Thanking  the  gentleman  for  his  timely 
and  polite  assistance,  she  wended  her  way  to  the  nearest 
convenient  place,  and,  taking  a forlorn  look  at  herself, 
proceeded  to  adjust  her  toilet.  The  finale  of  this  little 
incident  was  somewhat  romantic,  it  furnished  the  means 
of  culminating  an  acquaintance  of  friendship  merely  into, 
one  of  admiration  and  affection,  the  result  being  that,  not 
long  after,  the  parties  engaged  in  a matrimoninl  alliance, 
which  was  consummated  in  a remote  part  of  the  town, 
away  from  the  thickly  settled  portion  of  the  city — on  the 
corner  of  Michigan  avenue  and  Madison  street.  Their 
wedding  tour  was  a drive  to  Hard  Scrabble  and  back,  a 
suburban  retreat  containing  one  log  house,  and  situate 
about  4^  miles  from  town — the  site  now  forming  the 
outskirts  of  Bridgeport.  The  wedding  cortege  consisted  of 
two  dilapidated  carriages  and  one  buggy,  all  the  available 
stylish  turnouts  that  the  city  could  boast  of,  except  carts, 
and  which,  by  the  way,  were  the  only  means  of  convey- 
ance for  the  elite  of  the  town.  A buffalo  robe  was  placed 
in  the  bottom  of  the  carts,  they  were  backed  up,  received 
their  precious  freight,  taken  to  their  destination,  and  then 
dumped  down  like  a load  of  coal. 

Notwithstanding  all  these  seeming  inconveniences,  there 
was  more  real  social  enjoyment  in  our  pioneer  society  than 


30 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS 


can  now  be  found  in  the  elegant  and  costly  receptions 
given  in  palatial  mansions  of  wealth  and  refinement;  there 
was  that  absence  of  over-restraint;  the  strict  forms  of  eti- 
quette were  not  so  closely  observed;  there  were  no  million- 
naires — no  foreign  Counts  to  entertain ; no  Parisian  airs  to 
assume  as  a pre-requisite  to  initiation  into  the  best  society;, 
invitations  were  not  sent  on  highly -perfumed  Paris  billets 
doux , but  by  oral  representation,  thus:  “George,  if  you  see 
James,  tell  him  to  invite  Benjamin  and  William,  and  I 
will  invite  Byron  and  Charles,  to  a little  sociable  to-night 
at  Maria’s  (now  everybody  knew  Maria  as  well  as  Mrs. 
Josiah  Allen  knew  Betsy  Bobbitt);  you  bring  Andelucia, 
and  I will  see  that  Agnes,  Angeline,  Elizabeth,  and  Rose 
are  there.  We  shall  have  a first-rate  time.  Old  George- 
White  will  be  there  with  his  fiddle,”  etc.  Mind  you,  these 
are  no  fictitious  names,  but  veritable  actors  on  the  social 
stage  at  the  time,  some  of  whom  are  now  living,  and,  were 
they  present,  would  at  once  recognize  the  truth  of  what  I 
am  repeating.  The  George  White  mentioned  was  black 
as  the  raven  wing  of  the  night,  and  was  caterer  for  all 
first  society  people.  One  of  the  necessary  requisites,  how- 
ever, for  attending  these  social  gatherings,  was,  if  the  party 
was  a new  comer,  did  he  belong  to  the  first  society?  If 
yea,  that  was  all  that  was  required  of  him  as  a passport 
to  our  social  circle,  otherwise  no  intercourse  was  enjoyed 
until  initiated  into  the  first.  You  will  observe,  then,  that 
certain  requisites  were  necessary  before  even  the  nabobs 
of  the  east  could  enjoy  these  primitive  receptions,  unless 
properly  vouched  for. 

An  amusing  incident  of  the  olden  time,  although  not 
reflecting  favorably  upon  the  morals  of  some  of  the  mem- 
bers of  our  early  associates,  nevertheless,  shows  to  what 
abandon  a few  of  our  most  prominent  citizens  would  submit 
themselves  under  a want  of  proper  restraint.  Two  promi- 
nent legal  gentlemen  had  left  their  office,  and,  passing  the 
old  Tremont  House,  then  located  on  the  north-west  corner 
of  Lake  and  Dearborn  streets,  they  heard  an  unusual  noise 
in  the  dining-room.  With  much  difficulty  they  succeeded 
in  gaining  admission,  and  found  five  or  six  gentlemen  of 
the  highest  respectability  having,  what  they  were  pleased 
to  call,  “a  high  old  time.”  One  was  rolling  and  kicking 
up  his  heels  on  the  dining  table,  divested  of  his  coat  and 


OF  CHICAGO. 


31 

vest,  and  making  the  welkin  ring  with  his  unearthly  noise;, 
another  was  at  the  lower  end  of  the  room  praying;  a third 
was  dancing  a war  dance,  with  two  Indians,  around  the 
dining  table;  a fourth,  amusing  himself  by  cutting  up  capers 
in  imitation  of  an  old-fashioned  jig,  all  on  his  own  respon- 
sibility; two  others  were  lying  fast  asleep  under  the  table. 
Thus  they  were  all  employed  when  these  gentlemen  gained, 
an  admittance.  Finding  escape  by  the  doorway  impossible, 
they  took  the  next  best  plan,  and  jumped  out  the  window. 
They  were  fined  $5  each  for  their  intrusion,  by  the  parties- 
having  the  “gay  old  time,”  which  they  promptly  paid.  We 
could  give  the  names  of  all  these  parties,  but  they  have 
passed  away,  and  out  of  respect  to  the  departed,  we  will 
refrain  from  so  doing.  We  would  say,  however,  that  they 
all  became  honored  members  of  society,  filling  City,  State, 
and  Federal  offices  of  trust  and  responsibility  with  fidelity 
to  the  government  and  honor  to  themselves. 

In  migrating  to  a new  country,  many  interesting  circum- 
stances occur,  which  leave  a lasting  impression  upon  the 
mind,  notwithstanding  intervening  events  that  would  be 
calculated  to  occupy  the  popular  attention.  I recall  just 
now,  among  others,  the  Indian  payments,  which,  I think, 
occurred  as  late  as  1835  (a  few  tribes  remained  later,  but 
not  many).  Their  manner  of  giving  in  the  number  of  each 
household,  in  order  to  receive  their  annuity,  was  in  keeping 
with  their  own  originality.  Selecting  one  of  the  more 
prominent  of  their  number  (generally  the  chief)  to  receive 
their  payment,  the  “ modus  operandi ” was  in  this  wise:  for 
the  heads  of  the  family,  two  .large  notches  were  cut  at  the 
top  of  the  stick,  then  smaller  notches  followed  underneath, 
indicating  the  number  of  children  in  each  family.  Curi- 
osity led  me  to  inquire  of  Col.  Boyd,  the  Indian  Agent, 
if  he  was  not  occasionally  imposed  upon,  or  did  they  not 
sometimes  make  mistakes.  He  informed  me  that  he  had 
never  detected  an  instance  of  fraud  or  mistake  in  the  count 
during  all  the  payments  he  had  made.  After  receiving 
their  payment,  which  was  always  in  silver  half  dollars,  they 
would  at  once  repair  to  their  wigwams  and  pass  the  money 
over  to  their  squaws  for  safe  - keeping,  who  would  tie  it 
up  in  one  corner  of  their  blankets,  often  to  be  removed 
by  some  adroit  thief,  who  would  lie  in  wait  until  they  went 
to  sleep,  then  cut  it  from  the  blanket;  thus'  depriving  the 


32 


RISE  AND  PROGRESS  OF  CHICAGO. 


poor,  ignorant  creatures  of  all  their  worldly  wealth,  no  one 
interesting  themselves  in  their  behalf,  or  sympathizing  with 
them  in  their  loss. 

After  their  payment,  many  of  them  would  remain  several 
days,  and  favor  us  with  a display  of  some,  of  their  princi- 
pal amusements,  such  as  shooting  pennies,  with  bow  and 
arrow,  from  a stick  placed  some  distance  from  them  in  the 
road.  They  also  performed  a variety  of  dances,  some  of 
them  exceedingly  novel,  particularly  the  sick  dance.  The 
sick  person  is  placed  at  the  entrance  of  the  wigwam;  one 
of  their  number  takes  his  position  just  in  front,  with  an 
instrument  resembling  a gong  or  tambourine ; the  relatives 
and  friends  of  the  invalid  form  a circle  around  the  musi- 
cian, all  being  gaily  dressed  and  painted,  each  one  holding 
in  his  hand  the  skin  of  some  animal,  generally  an  otter  or 
mink;  then,  at  the  tap  of  the  gong,  and  lliere  is  no  mistaking 
the  tap,  for  it  is  given  with  the  full  strength  of  the  Indian, 
they  all  commence  dancing  around,  singing,  crying,  and 
making  other  hideous  noises;  at  a given  signal  bow  before 
the  patient  and  push  out  these  perfumed  skins  toward 
them,  after  the  manner  of  shaking  incense.  This  dance 
continues  at  intervals  until  the  sufferer  either  recovers  or 
dies,  but  they  generally  die,  for  the  noise  is  so  intolerably 
great  that  it  is  next  to  impossible  for  them  to  recoven 
Their  war  dances,  too,  are  very  unique,  differing  entirely 
from  the  sick  or  peace  dances,  if  possible,  more  noisy  than 
either;  but  enough.  On  some  future  occasion,  I may  have 
the  honor  of  presenting  to  you  a more  extended  descrip- 
tion of  the  social  and  religious  doings  in  the  earlier  history 
of  our  beautiful  city,  and  enter  more  into  details  respecting 
those  who  have  gone  to  their  rest,  but  who,  while  living, 
contributed  so  much  toward  the  intellectual,  historical,  and 
social  advancement  of  our  present  highly -refined  Chicago 
Society. 


CHICAGO  IN  1836. 


“STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS.” 


By  HARRIET  MARTIN EAU, * 

Author  of  “Society  in  America.” 


We  had  already  met  with  some  delays;  and  there  was  no 
seeing  the  end  of  the  present  adventure.  There  was  some 
doubt  whether  we  should  not  have  done  better  to  cross  the 
southern  end  of  Lake  Michigan,  from  Niles  to  Chicago,  by 
.a  little  steam-boat,  the  Delaware,  which  was  to  leave  Niles 
a few  hours  after  our  stage.  It  had  been  thought  of  at 
Niles;  but  there  was  some  uncertainty  about  the  departure 
of  the  boat;  and  we  all  anxiously  desired  to  skirt  the  ex- 
tremity of  this  great  inland  sea,  and  to  see  the  new  settle- 
ments on  its  shores.  Had  we  done  right  in  incurring  this 
risk  of  detention?  Right  or  wrong,  here  we  were;  and  here 
we  must  wait  upon  events. 

Our  sleep,  amidst  the  luxury  of  cleanliness  and  hospital- 
ity, was  most  refreshing.  The  next  morning  it  was  still 
raining,  but  less  vehemently.  After  breakfast,  we  ladies 
employed  ourselves  in  sweeping  and  dusting  our  room,  and 
making  the  beds;  as  we  had  given  our  kind  hostess  too 
much  trouble  already.  Then  there  was  a Michigan  City 
newspaper  to  be  read;  and  I sat  down  to  write  letters. 
Before  long,  a wagon  and  four  drove  up  to  the  door,  the 
driver  of  which  cried  out  that  if  there  was  any  getting  to 
Michigan  Citv,  he  was  our  man.  We  equipped  ourselves 
in  our  warmest  and  thickest  clothing,  put  on  our  india-rub- 
ber shoes,  packed  ourselves  and  our  luggage  in  the  wagon, 
put  up  our  umbrellas,  and  wondered  what  was  to  be  our 
fate.  When  it  had  come  to  saying  farewell,  our  hostess  put 
her  hands  on  my  shoulders,  kissed  me  on  each  cheek,  and 


* Died  June  27,  1870,  aged  77  years,  at  Atnbleside,  England. 


34 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


said  she  had  hoped  for  the  pleasure  of  our  company  for 
another  day.  For  my  own  part,  I would  willingly  take  her 
at  her  word,  if  my  destiny  should  ever  carry  me  near  the 
great  lakes  again. 

We  jolted  on  for  two  miles  and  a-half  through  the  woods, 
admiring  the  scarlet  lilies,  and  the  pink  and  white  moccasin 
flower,  which  was  brilliant.  Then  we  arrived  at  the  place 
of  the  Vanished  bridge.  Our  first  prospect  was  of  being, 
paddled  over,  one  by  one,  in  the  smallest  of  boats.  But,, 
when  the  capabilities  of  the  place  were  examined,  it  was 
decided  that  we  should  wait  in  a house  on  the  hill,  while, 
the  neighbors,  the  passengers  of  the  mail-stage,  and  the 
drivers,  build  a bridge.  We  waited  patiently  for  nearly 
three  hours,  watching  the  busy  men  going  in  and  out,  gath- 
ering tidings  of  the  freshet,  and  its  effects,  and  being 
pleased  to  see  how  affectionate  the  woman  of  the  house 
was  to  her  husband,  while  she  was  cross  to  everybody  else.. 
It  must  have  been  vexatious  to  her  to  have  her  floor  made 
wet  and  dirty,  and  all  her  household  operations  disturbed 
by  a dozen  strangers  whom  she  had  never  invited.  She  let 
us  have  some  dough-nuts,  and  gave  us  a gracious  glance  or 
two  at  parting. 

We  learned  that  a gentleman  who  followed  us  from 
Niles  the  preceding  day,  found  the  water  nine  feet  deep,, 
and  was  near  drowning  his  horses,  in  a place  which  we  had 
crossed  without  difficulty.  This  very  morning,  a bridge 
which  we  had  proved  and  passed,  gave  way  with  the  stage, 
and  the  horses  had  to  be  dug  and  rolled  out  of  the  mud, 
when  they  were  on  the  point  of  suffocation.  Such  a freshet 
had  never  been  known  to  the  present  inhabitants. 

At  half-past  two,  the  bridge  was  announced  complete, 
and  we  re-entered  our  wagon,  to  lead  the  cavalcade  across 
it,  slowly,  anxiously,  with  a man  at  the  head  of  each  leader,, 
we  entered  the  water,  and  saw  it  rise  to  the  nave  of  the 
wheels.  Instead  of  jolting,  as  usual,  we  mounted  and  de- 
scended each  log  individually.  The  mail-wagon  followed,, 
with  two  or  three  horsemen.  There  was  also  a singularly 
benevolent  personage,  who  jumped  from  the  other  wagon,, 
and  waded  through  all  the  doubtful  places,  to  prove  them. 
He  leaped  and  splashed  through  the  water,  which  was 
sometimes  up  to  his  waist,  as  if  it  was  the  most  agreeable 
sport  in  the  world.  In  one  of  these  gullies,  the  forepart  of 
our  wagon  sank  and  stuck,  so  as  to  throw  us  forward,  and 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU. 


o r1 

DD 

make  it  doubtful  in  what  mode  we  should  emerge  from  the 
water.  Then  the  rim  of  one  of  the  wheels  was  found  to 
be  loose;  and  the  whole  cavalcade  stopped  till  it  was 
mended.  I never  could  understand  how  wagons  were 
made  in  the  back-country;  they  seemed  to  be  elastic,  from 
the  shocks  and  twisting  they  would  bear  without  giving 
way.  To  form  an  accurate  idea  of  what  they  have  to  bear, 
a traveller  should  sit  on  a seat  without  springs,  placed 
between  the  hind  wheels,  and  thus  proceed  on  a corduroy 
road.  The  effect  is  less  fatiguing  and  more  amusing,  of 
riding  in  a wagon  whose  seats  are  on  springs,  while  the 
vehicle  itself  is  not.  In  that  case,  the  feet  are  dancing  an 
involuntary  jig,  all  the  way;  while  the  rest  of  the  body  is  in 
a state  of  entire  repose. 

The  drive  was  so  exciting  and  pleasant,  the  rain  having- 
ceased,  that  I was  taken  by  surprise  by  our  arrival  at  Mich- 
igan City.  The  driver  announced  our  approach  by  a series 
of  flourishes  on  one  note  of  his  common  horn,  which  made 
the  most  ludicrous  music  I ever  listened  to. 

We  were  anxious  to  see  the  mighty  fresh  water  sea.  We 
made  inquiry  in  the  piazza;  and  a sandy  hill,  close  by,  cov- 
ered with  the  pea-vine,  was  pointed  out  to  us.  We  ran  up 
it,  and  there  beheld  what  we  had  come  so  far  to  see. 
There  it  was,  deep,  green,  and  swelling  on  the  horizon,  and 
whitening  into  a broad  and  heavy  surf  as  it  rolled  in 
towards  the  shore.  Hence,  too,  we  could  make  out  the 
geography  of  the  city.  The  whole  scene  stands  insulated 
in  my  memory,  as  absolutely  singular;  and,  at  this  distance 
of  time,  scarcely  credible.  I was  so  well  aware  on  the . spot 
that  it  would  be  so,  that  I'm'ade  careful  and  copious  notes 
of  what  I saw : but  memoranda  have  nothing  to  do  until 
such  emotions  as  were  caused  by  the  sight  of  that  enor- 
mous body  of  tumultuous  waters,  rolling  in  apparently  upon 
the  helpless  forest, — everywhere  else  so  majestic. 

Immediately  after  supper  we  went  out  for  a walk,  which, 
in  peculiarity,  comes  next  to  that  in  the  Mammoth  Cave; 
if,  indeed,  it  be  second  to  it.  The  scene  was  like  what  I 
had  always  fancied  the  Norway  coast,  but  for  the  wild 
flowers,  which  grew  among  the  pines  on  the  slope,  almost 
into  the  tide.  I longed  to  spend  an  entire  day  on  this 
flowery  and  shadowy  margin  of  the  inland  sea.  I plucked 
handfuls  of  pea-vine  and  other  trailing  flowers,  which 
seemed  to  run  all  over  the  ground.  We  found  on  the 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


36 

sands  an  army,  like  Pharaoh’s  drowned  host,  of  disabled 
butterflies,  beetles,  and  flies  of  the  richest  colors  and  lustre, 
driven  over  the  lake  by  the  storm.  Chapey*  found  a small 
turtle  alive.  An  elegant  little  schooner,  “the  Sea  Serpent 
of  Chicago,”  was  stranded,  and  formed  a beautiful  object 
as  she  lay  dark  between  the  sand  and  the  surf.  The  sun 
was  going  down.  We  watched  the  sunset,  not  remember- 
ing that  the  refraction  above  the  fresh  waters  would  prob- 
ably cause  some  remarkable  appearance.  We  looked  at 
one  another  in  amazement  at  what  we  saw.  First,  there 
were  three  gay,  inverted  rainbows  between  the  water  and 
the  sun,  then  hidden  behind  a little  streak  of  cloud.  Then 
the  sun  emerged  from  behind  this  only  cloud,  urn-shaped; 
a glistering  golden  urn.  Then  it  changed,  rather  suddenly, 
to  an  enormous  golden  acorn.  Then  to  a precise  resem- 
blance, except  being  prodigiously  magnified,  of  Saturn  with 
his  ring.  This  was  the  most  beautiful  apparition  of  all. 
Then  it  was  quickly  narrowed  and  elongated  till  it  was  like 
the  shaft  of  a golden  pillar;  and  thus  it  went  down  square. 
Long  after  its  disappearance,  a lustrous,  deep  crimson 
dome,  seemingly  solid,  rested  steadily  on  the  heaving 
waters.  An  inexperienced  navigator  might  be  pardoned 
for  making  all  sail  towards  it;  it  looked  so  real. 

On  our  road  to  Chicago,  the  next  day, — a road  winding 
in  and  out  among  the  sand-hills,  we  were  called  to  alight, 
and  run  up  a bank  to  see  a wreck.  It  was  the  wreck  of 
the  Delaware; — the  steamer  in  which  it  had  been  a ques- 
tion whether  we  should  not  proceed  from  Niles  to  Chicago. 
She  had  a singular  twist  in  her  middle,  where  she  was 
nearly  broken  in  two.  Her  passengers  stood  up  to  the 
neck  in  water,  for  twenty-four  hours  before  they  were  taken 
off;  a worse  inconvenience  than  any  that  we  had  suffered 
by  coming  the  other  way.  The  first  thing  the  passengers 
from  the  Delaware  did,  when  they  had  dried  and  warmed 
themselves  on  shore,  was  to  sign  a letter  to  the  captain, 
which  appeared  in  all  the  neighboring  newspapers,  thank- 
ing him  for  the  great  comfort  they  had  enjoyed  on  board 
his  vessel.  It  is  to  be  presumed  that  they  meant  previously 
to  their  having  to  stand  up  to  their  necks  in  water. 

In  the  wood  which  borders  the  prairie  on  which  Chicago 
stands,  we  saw  an  encampment  of  United  States’  troops. 
Since  the  rising  of  the  Creeks  in  Georgia,  some  months 


x Son  of  Rev.  Dr.  Follen. 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU. 


37 


before,  there  had  been  apprehensions  of  an  Indian  war 
along  the  whole  frontier.  It  was  believed  that  a corre- 
spondence had  taken  place  among  all  the  tribes,  from  the 
Cumaches,  who  were  engaged  to  fight  for  the  Mexicans  in 
Texas,  up  to  the  northern  tribes  among  whom  we  were 
going.  It  was  believed  that  the  war-belt  was  circulating 
among  the  Winnebagoes,  the  warlike  tribe  who  inhabit  the 
western  shores  of  Lake  Michigan ; and  the  government  had 
sent  troops  to  Chicago,  to  keep  them  in  awe.  It  was  of 
some  consequence  to  us  to  ascertain  the  real  state  of  the 
case;  and  we  were  glad  to  find  that  alarm  was  subsiding  so 
fast,  that  the  troops  were  soon  allowed  to  go  where  they 
were  more  wanted.  As  soon  as  they  had  recovered  from 
the  storm,  which  seemed  to  have  incommoded  everybody, 
they  broke  up  their  encampment,  and  departed. 

Chicago  looks  raw  and  bare,  standing  on  the  high  prairie 
above  the  lake  shore.  The  houses  appear  all  insignificant, 
and  run  up  in  various  directions,  without  any  principle  at 
all.  A friend  of  mine  who  resides  there  had  told  me  that 
we  should  find  the  inns  intolerable,  at  the  period  of  the 
great  land  sales,  which  bring  a concourse  of  speculators  to 
the  place.  It  was  even  so.  The  very  sight  of  them  was 
intolerable;  and  there  was  not  room  for  our  party  among 
them  all.  I do  not  know  what  we  should  have  done, 
(unless  to  betake  ourselves  to  the  vessels  in  the  harbor,)  if 
our  coming  had  not  been  foreknown,  and  most  kindly  pro- 
vided for.  We  were  divided  between  three  families,  who 
had  the  art  of  removing  all  our  scruples  about  intrud- 
ing on  perfeqt  strangers.  None  of  us  will  lose  the  lively 
and  pleasant  associations  with  the  place,  which  were  caused 
by  the  hospitalities  of  its  inhabitants. 

I never  saw  a busier  place  than  Chicago  was  at  the  time 
of  our  arrival.  The  streets  were  crowded  with  land  specu- 
lators, hurrying  from  one  sale  to  another.  A negro,  dressed 
up  in  scarlet,  bearing  a scarlet  flag,  and  riding  a white 
horse  with  housings  of  scarlet,  announced  the  times  of  sale. 
At  every  street  corner  where  he  stopped,  the  crowed  flocked 
round  him;  and  it  seemed  as  if  some  prevalent  mania  in- 
fected the  whole  people.  The  rage  for  speculation  might 
fairly  be  so  regarded.  As  the  gentlemen  of  our  party 
walked  the  streets,  store-keepers  hailed  them  from  their 
doors,  with  offers  of  farms,  and  all  manner  of  land-lots,  ad- 
vising them  to  speculate  before  the  price  - of  land  rose 


33 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


higher.  A young  lawyer,  of  my  acquaintance  there,*  had 
realized  five  hundred  dollars  per  day,  the  five  preceding 
days,  by  merely  making  out  titles  to  land.  Another  friend 
had  realized,  in  two  years,  ten  times  as  much  money  as  he 
had  before  fixed  upon  as  a competence  for  life.  Of  course, 
this  rapid  money-making  is  a merely  temporary  evil.  A 
bursting  of  the  bubble  must  come  soon.  The  absurdity  of 
the  speculation  is  so  striking,  that  the  wonder  is  that  the 
fever  should  have  attained  such  a height  as  I witnessed. 
The  immediate  occasion  of  the  bustle  which  prevailed,  the 
week  we  were  at  Chicago,  was  the  sale  of  lots,  to  the  value 
of  two  millions  of  dollars,  along  the  course  of  a projected 
canal;  and  of  another  set,  immediately  behind  these.  Per- 
sons not  intending  to  game,  and  not  infected  with  mania, 
would  endeavor  to  form  some  reasonable  conjecture  as  to 
the  ultimate  value  of  the  lots,  by  calculating  the  cost  of  the 
canal,  the  risks  from  accident,  from  the  possible  competi- 
tion from  other  places,  etc.,  and,  finally,  the  possible  pro- 
fits, under  the  most  favorable  circumstance,  within  so  many 
years’  purchase.  Such  a calculation  would  serve  as  some 
sort  of  guide  as  to  the  amount  of  purchase-money  to  be 
risked.  Whereas,  wild  land  on  the  banks  of  a canal,  not 
yet  even  marked  out,  was  selling  at  Chicago  for  more  than 
rich  land,  well  improved,  in  the  finest  part  of  the  valley  of 
the  Mohawk,  on  the  banks  of  a canal  which  is  already  the 
medium  of  an  almost  inestimable  amount  of  traffic.  If 
sharpers  and  gamblers  were  to  be  the  sufferers  by  the  im- 
pending crash  at  Chicago,  no  one  would  feel  much  con- 
cerned: but  they,  unfortunately,  are  the  people  who  encour- 
age the  delusion,  in . order  to  profit  by  it.  Many  a high- 
spirited,  but  unexperienced,  young  man;  many  a simple 
settler,  will  be  ruined  for  the  advantage  of  knaves. 

Others,  besides  lawyers  and  speculators  by  trade,  make  a 
fortune  in  such  extraordinary  times.  A poor  man  at  Chi- 
cago had  a pre-emption  right  to  some  land,  for  which  he 
paid  in  the  morning  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  In  the 
afternoon,  he  sold  it  to  a friend  of  mine  for  five  thousand 
dollars.  A poor  Frenchman, t married  to  a squaw,  had  a 
suit  pending,  when  I was  there,  which  he  was  likely  to 
gain,  for  the  right  of  purchasing  some  land  by  the  lake  for 
one  hundred  dollars,  which  would  immediately  become 
worth  one  million  dollars. 


* Joseph  N.  Balestier,  Esq.,  now  of  Brattleboro,  Vt  t Gen.  John  B,  Beaubien. 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU. 


39 


There  was  much  gaiety  going  on  at  Chicago,  as  well  as 
business.  On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  a fancy  fair  took 
place.  As  I was  too  much  fatigued  to  go,  the  ladies  sent 
me  a bouquet  of  prairie  flowers.  There  is  some  allowable 
pride  in  the  place  about  its  society.  It  is  a remarkable 
thing  to  meet  such  an  assemblage  of  educated,  refined,  and 
wealthy  persons  as  may  be  found  there,  living  in  small, 
inconvenient  houses  on  the  edge  of  a wild  prairie.  There 
is  a mixture,  of  course.  I heard  of  a family  of  half-breeds 
setting  up  a carriage,  and  wear  fine  jewellery.  When  the 
present  intoxication  of  prosperity  passes  away,  some  of  the 
inhabitants  will  go  back  to  the  eastward;  there  will  be 
an  accession  of  settlers  from  the  mechanic  classes;  good 
houses  will  have  been  built  for  the  richer  families,  and  the 
singularity  of  the  place  will  subside.  It  will  be  like  all  the 
other  new  and  thriving  lake  and  river  ports  of  America. 
Meantime,  I am  glad  to  have  seen  it  in  its  strange  early 
days. 

We  dined  one  day  with  a gentleman*  who  had  been  Ind- 
ian agent  among  the  Winnebagoes  for  some  years.  He  and 
his  lady  seem  to  have  had  the  art  of  making  themselves  as 
.absolutely  Indian  in  their  sympathies  and  manners  as  the 
welfare  of  the  savages  among  whom  they  lived  required. 
They  were  the  only  persons  I met  with  who,  really  knowing 
the  Indians,  had  any  regard  for  them.  The  testimony  was 
universal  to  the  good  faith,  and  other  virtues  of  savage  life 
of  the  unsophisticated  Indians;  but  they  were  spoken  of  in 
a tone  of  dislike,  as  well  as  pity,  by  all  but  this  family;  and 
they  certainly  had  studied  their  Indian  neighbors  very  thor- 
oughly. The  ladies  of  Indian  agents  ought  to  be  women  of 
nerve.  Our  hostess  had  slept  for  weeks  with  a loaded  pis- 
tol on  each  side  her  pillow,  and  a dagger  under  it,  when  ex- 
pecting an  attack  from  a hostile  tribe.t  The  foe  did  not, 
however,  come  nearer  than  within  a few  miles.  Her  hus- 
band’s sisterj;  was  in  the  massacre  when  the  fort  was  aband- 
oned, in  1812.  Her  father  and  her  husband  were  in  the 
battle,  and  her  mother  and  young  brothers  and  sisters  sat  in 
a boat  on  the  lake  near.  Out  of  seventy  whites,  only  seven- 
teen escaped,  among  whom  were  her  family.  She  was 
'wounded  in  the  ankle,  as  she  sat  on  her  horse.  A painted 

* John  H.  Kinzie.  Esq.  t At  Fort  Winnebago,  1832. 

X Mrs.  Helm,  now  Mrs.  Geo.  C.  Bates,  Salt  Lake  City. 


40 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


Indian,  in  warlike  costume,  came  leaping  up  to  her,  and  seized 
her  horse,  as  she  supposed,  to  murder  her.  She  fought  him 
vigorously,  and  he  bore  it  without  doing  her  any  injury.. 
He  spoke,  but  she  could  not  understand  him.  Another 
frightful  savage  came  up,  and  the  two  led  her  horse  to  the 
lake,  and  into  it,  in  spite  of  her  resistance,  till  the  water- 
reached  their  chins.  She  concluded  that  they  meant  to 
drown  her;  but  they  contented  themselves  with  holding  her 
on  her  horse  till  the  massacre  was  over,  when  they  led  her 
out  in  safety.  They  were  friendly  Indians,  sent  by  her 
husband  to  guard  her.  She  could  not  but  admire  their 
patience,  when  she  found  how  she  had  been  treating  her 
protectors. 

We  had  the  fearful  pleasure  of  seeing  various  savage  dances 
performed  by  the  Indian  agent  and  his  brother,*  with  the 
accompaniments  of  complete  costume,  barbaric  music,  and 
whooping.  The  most  intelligible  to  us  was  the  Discovery 
Dance,  a highly  descriptive  pantomime.  We  saw  the  Ind- 
ian go  out  armed  for  war.  We  saw  him  reconnoitre,  make 
signs  to  his  comrades,  sleep,  warm  himself,  load  his  rifle,, 
sharpen  his  scalping-knife,  steal  through  the  grass  within 
rifle-shot  of  his  foes,  fire,  scalp  one  of  them,  and  dance, 
whooping,  and  triumphing.  There  was  a dreadful  truth 
about  the  whole,  and  it  made  our  blood  run  cold.  It  real- 
ized hatred  and  horror  as  effectually  as  Taglioni  does  love 
and  grace. 

We  were  unexpectedly  detained  over  the  Sunday  at  Chi- 
cago; and  Dr.  F.+  was  requested  to  preach.  Though  only 
two  hours’  notice  was  given,  a respectable  congregation 
was  assembled  in  the  large  room  of  the  Lake  House;  a 
new  hotel  then  building.  Our  seats  were  a few  chairs  and 
benches,  and  planks  laid  on  trestles.  The  preacher  stood 
behind  a rough  pine-table,  on  which  a large  Bible  was 
placed.  I was  never  present  at  a more  interesting  service ;. 
and  I know  that  there  were  others  who  felt  with  me. 

From  Chicago,  we  made  an  excursion  into  the  prairies. 
Our  young  lawyer-friend  threw  behind  him  the  five  hundred 
dollars  per  day,  which  he  was  making,  and  went  with  us. 
I thought  him  wise;  for  there  is  that  to  be  had  in  the  wil- 
derness which  money  cannot  buy.  We  drove  out  of  the 
town  at  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning,  too  late  by  two  hours; 
but  it  was  impossible  to  overcome  the  introductions  to> 

: John  H.  and  Robert  A.  Kinzie.  t Rev.  Dr.  Follen. 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU. 


41 


strangers,  and  the  bustle  of  our  preparations,  any  sooner. 
Our  party  consisted  of  seven,  besides  the  driver.  Our 
vehicle  was  a wagon  with  four  horses. 

We  had  first  to  cross  the  prairie,  nine  miles  wide,  on  the 
lake  edge  of  which  Chicago  stands.  This  prairie  is  not 
usually  wet  so  early  in  the  year;  but  at  this  time  the  water 
stood  almost  up  to  the  nave  of  the  wheels : and  we  crossed 
it  at  a walking  pace.  I saw  here,  for  the  first  time  in  the 
United  States, 'the  American  primrose.  It  grew  in  profu- 
sion over  the  whole  prairie,  as  far  as  I could  see;  not  so 
large  and  fine  as  in  English  green-houses,  but  graceful  and 
pretty.  I now  found  the  truth  of  what  I had  read  about 
the  difficulty  of  distinguishing  distances  on  a prairie.  The 
feeling  is  quite  bewildering.  A man  walking  near  looks 
like  a Goliath  a mile  off.  I mistook  a covered  wagon  with- 
out horses,  at  a distance  of  fifty  yards,  for  a white  house 
near  the  horizon:  and  so  on.  We  were  not  sorry  to  reach, 
the  belt  of  trees,  which  bounded  the  swamp  we  had  passed. 
At  a house  here,  where  we  stopped  to  water  the  horses, 
and  eat  dough-nuts,  we  saw  a crowd  of  emigrants;  which 
showed  that  we  had  not  yet  reached  the  bounds  of  civiliza- 
tion. A little  further  on  we  came  to  the  river  Aux  Plaines, 
spelled  on  a sign  board  “Oplain.”  The  ferry  here  is  a 
monopoly,  and  the  public  suffers  accordingly.  There  is 
only  one  small  flat  boat  for  the  service  of  the  concourse  of 
people  now  pouring  into  the  prairies.  Though  we  hap- 
pened to  arrive  nearly  first  of  the  crowd  of  to-day,  we  were 
detained  on  the  bank  above  an  hour ; and  then  our  horses 
went  over  at  two  crossings,  and  the  wagon  and  ourselves  at 
the  third.  It  was  a pretty  ‘scene,  if  we  had  not  been  in  a 
hurry;  the  country  wagons  and  teams  in  the  wood  by  the 
side  of  the  quiet  clear  river;  and  the  oxen  swimming  over, 
yoked,  with  only  their  patient  faces  visible  above  the  sur- 
face. After  crossing,  we  proceeded  briskly  till  we  reached 
a single  house,  where,  or  nowhere,  we  were  to  dine.  The 
kind  hostess  bestirred  herself  to  provide  us  a good  dinner 
of  tea,  bread,  ham,  potatoes,  and  strawberries,  of  which  a 
whole  pailful,  ripe  and  sweet,  had  been  gathered  by  the 
children  in  the  grass  round  the  house,  within  one  hour. 
While  dinner  was  preparing,  we  amused  ourselves  with 
looking  over  an  excellent  small  collection  of  books,  belong- 
ing to  Miss  Cynthia,  the  daughter  of  the  hostess. 

I never  saw  insulation,  (not  desolation.)  to  compare  with 


42 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


the  situation  of  a settler  on  a wide  prairie.  A single  house 
in  the  middle  of  Salisbury  Plain  would  be  desolate.  A 
single  house  on  a prairie  has  clumps  of  trees  near  it,  rich 
fields  about  it;  and  flowers,  strawberries,  and  running  water 
at  hand.  But  when  I saw;  a settler’s  child  tripping  out  of 
home-bounds,  I had  a feeling  that  it  would  never  get  back 
again.  It  looked  like  putting  out  into  Lake  Michigan  in  a 
canoe.  The  soil  round  the  dwellings  is  very  rich.  It 
makes  no  dust,  it  is  so  entirely  vegetable.  It  requires 
merely  to  be  once  turned  over  to  produce  largely;  and,  at 
present,  it  appears  to  be  inexhaustible.  As  we  proceeded, 
the  scenery  became  more  and  more  like  what  all  travellers 
■compare  it  to, — a boundless  . English  park.  The  grass  was 
wilder,  the  occasional  footpath  not  so  trim,  and  the  single 
trees  less  majestic;  but  no  park  ever  displayed  anything 
equal  to  the  grouping  of  the  trees  within  the  windings  of 
the  blue,  brimming  river  Aux  Plaines. 

We  had  met  with  so  many  delays  that  we  felt  doubts 
about  reaching  the  place  where  we  had  intended  to  spend 
the  night.  At  sunset,  we  found  ourselves  still  nine  miles 
from  Joliet;*  but  we  were  told  that  the  road  was  good, 
except  a small  “slew”  or  two;  and  there  was  half  a moon 
•shining  behind  a thin  veil  of  clouds;  so  we  pushed  on. 
We  seemed  latterly  to  be  travelling  on  a terrace  overlook- 
ing a wide  champaign,  where  a dark  waving  line  might 
indicate  the  winding  of  the  river,  between  its  clumpy  banks. 
Our  driver  descended,  and  went  forward,  two  or  three 
times,  to  make  sure  of  our  road;  and,  at  length,  we  rattled 
down  a steep  descent,  and  found  ourselves  among  houses. 
This  was  not  our  resting-place,  however.  The  Joliet  hotel 
lay  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  We  were  directed  to  a 
foot-bridge  by  which  we  were  to  pass;  and  a ford  below 
for  the  wagon.  We  strained  our  eyes  in  vain  for  the  foot- 
bridge; and  our  gentlemen  peeped  and  pryed  about  for 
some  time.  All  was  still  but  the  rippling  river,  and  every- 
body asleep  in  the  houses  that  were  scattered  about.  We 
ladies  were  presently  summoned  to  put  on  our  water-proof 
shoes,  and  alight.  A man  showed  himself  who  had  risen 

* I preserve  the  original  name,  which  is  that  of  the  first  French 
■missionary  who  visited  these  parts.  The  place  is  now  commonly 
called  Juliet;  and  a settlement  near  has  actually  been  named  Romeo  : 
so  that  I fear  there  is  little  hope  of  a restoration  of  the  honorable  prim- 
itive name. 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU. 


43 


from  his  bed  to  help  us  in  our  need.  The  foot-bridge  con- 
sisted, for  some  way,  of  two  planks,  with  a hand-rail  on 
one  side:  but,  when  we  were  about  a-third  of  the  Avay  over, 
one-half  of  the  planks,  and  the  hand-rail  had  disappeared. 
We  actually  had  to  cross  the  rushing,  deep  river  on  a line 
of  single  planks,  by  dim  moonlight,  at  past  eleven  at  night. 
The  great  anxiety  was  about  Charley;  but  between  his 
father  and  the  guide,  he  managed  very  well.  This  guide 
would  accept  nothing  but  thanks.  He  “did  not  calculate 
to  take  any  pay.”  Then  we  waited  some  time  for  the 
wagon  to  come  up  from  the  ford.  I suspected  it  had 
passed  the  spot  where  we  stood,  and  had  proceeded  to  the 
village,  where  we  saw  a twinkling  light,  now  disappearing, 
and  now  re-appearing.  It  was  so,  and  the  driver  came 
back  to  look  for  us,  and  tell  us  that  the  light  we  saw  was  a 
signal  from  the  hotel-keeper,  whom  we  found,  standing  on 
his  door-step,  and  sheltering  his  candle  with  his  hand.  We 
sat  down  and  drank  milk  in  the  bar,  while  he  went  to  con- 
sult with  his  wife  what  was  to  be ' done  with  us,  as  every 
bed  in  the  house  was  occupied.  We,  meanwhile,  agreed 
that  the  time  was  now  come  for  us  to  enjoy  an  adventure 
which  we  had  often  anticipated : sleeping  in  a barn.  We 
had  all  declared  ourselves  anxious  to  sleep  in  a barn,  if  we 
could  meet  with  one  that  was  air-tight,  and  well  supplied 
with  hay.  Such  a barn  was  actually  on  these  premises. 
We  were  prevented,  however,  from  all  practising  the  freak 
by  the  prompt  hospitality  of  our  hostess.  Before  we  knew 
what  she  was  about,  she  had  risen  and  dressed  herself,  put 
clean  sheets  on  her  own  bed,  and  made  up  two  others  on 
the  floor  of  the  same  room;  so  that  the  ladies  and  Charley 
were  luxuriously  accommodated.  Two  sleepy  personages 
crawled  down  stans  to  offer  their  beds  to  our  gentlemen. 
Mr.  L.*  and  our  Chicago  friend,  however,  persisted  in  sleep- 
ing in  the  barn.  Next  morning,  we  all  gave  a very  gratify- 
ing report  of  our  lodgings.  When  we  made  our  acknowl- 
edgments to  our  hostess,  she  said  she  thought  that  people 
who  could  go  to  bed  o^ietly  every  night  ought  to  be  ready 
to  give  up  to  tired  travellers.  Whenever  she  travels,  I 
hope  she  will  be  treated  as  she  treated  us.  She  let  us  have 
breakfast  as  early  as  half-past  five,  the  next  morning,  and 
gave  Charley  a bun  at  parting,  lest  he  should  be  too  hungry 
before  we  could  dine. 

* Ellis  Gray  Loring,  Esq. 


44 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


The  great  object  of  our  expedition,  Mount  Joliet,  was 
two  miles  distant  from  this  place.  We  had  to  visit  it,  and 
perform  the  journey  back  to  Chicago,  forty  miles,  before 
night.  The  mount  is  only  sixty  feet  high;  yet  it  commands 
a view  which  I shall  not  attempt  to  describe,  either  in  its 
vastness,  or  its  soft  beauty.  The  very  spirit  of  tranquility 
resides  in  this  paradisy  scene.  The  next  painter  who’ 
would  worthily  illustrate  Milton’s  Morning  Hymn,  should 
come  and  paint  what  he  sees  from  Mount  Joliet,  on  a dewy 
summer’s  morning,  when  a few  light  clouds  are  gently  sail- 
ing in  the  sky,  and  their  shadows  traversing  the  prairie. 
I thought  I had  never  seen  green  levels  till  now;  and 
only  among  mountains  had  I before  known  the  beauty  of 
wandering  showers.  Mount  Joliet  has  the  appearance  of 
being  an  artificial  mound,  its  sides  are  so  uniformly  steep, 
and  its  form  so  regular.  Its  declivity  was  bristling  with 
flowers;  among  which  were  conspicuous  the  scarlet  lily,  the 
white  convolvulus,  and  a tall,  red  flower  of  the  scabia  form. 
We  disturbed  a night-havflc,  sitting  on  her  eggs,  on  the 
ground.  She  wheeled  round  and  round  over  our  heads, 
and,  I hope,  returned  to  her  eggs  before  they  were  cold. 

Not  far  from  the  mount  was  a log-house,  where  the  rest  of 
the  party  went  in  to  dry  their  feet,  after  having  stood  long 
in  the  wet  grass.  I remained  outside,  watching  the  light 
showers,  shifting  in  the  partial  sunlight  from  clump  to  level, 
and  from  reach  to  reach  of  the  brimming  and  winding  river. 
The  nine  miles  of  prairie,  which  we  had  traversed  in  dim 
moonlight  last  night,  were  now  exquisitely  beautiful,  as  the 
sun  shone  fitfully  upon  them. 

We  saw  a prairie  wolf,  very  like  a yellow  dog,  trotting 
across  our  path,  this  afternoon.  Our  hostess  of  the  preced- 
ing day,  expecting  us,  had  an  excellent  dinner  ready  for  us. 
We  were  detained  a shorter  time  at  the  ferry,  and  reached 
the  belt  of  trees  at  the  edge  of  Nine-mile  Prairie,  before 
sunset.  Here,  in  common  prudence,  we  ought  to  have 
stopped  till  the  next  day,  even  if  no  other  accommodation 
could  be  afforded  us  than  a roof  over  our  heads.  We  de- 
served an  ague  for  crossing  the  swamp  after  dark,  in  an 
open  wagon,  at  a foot  pace.  Nobody  was  aware  of  this  in 
time,  and  we  set  forward;  the  feet  of  our  wearied  horses 
plashing  in  water  at  every  step  of  the  nine  miles.  There 
was  no  road;  and  we  had  to  trust  to  the  instinct  of  driver 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU. 


45 


and  horses  to  keep  us  in  the  right  direction.  I rather  think 
the  driver  attempted  to  amuse  himself  by  exciting  our  fears. 
He  hinted  more  than  once  at  the  difficulty  of  finding  the 
way;  at  the  improbability  that  we  should  reach  Chicago 
before  midnight;  and  at  the  danger  of  our  wandering  about 
the  marsh  all  night,  and  finding  ourselves  at  the  opposite 
edge  of  the  prairie  in  the  morning.  Charley  was  bruised 
and  tired.  All  the  rest  were  hungry  and  cold.  It  was 
very  dreary.  The  driver  bade  us  look  to  our  right  hand. 
A black  bear  was  trotting  alongside  of  us,  at  a little  dis- 
tance. After  keeping  up  his  trot  for  some  time,  he  turned 
off  from  our  track.  The  sight  of  him  made  up  for  all, — 
even  if  ague  should  follow,  which  I verily  believe  it  would. 
But  we  escaped  all  illness.  It  is  remarkable  that  I never 
saw  ague  but  once.  The  single  case  that  I met  with  was 
in  autumn,  at  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 

I had  promised  Dr.  F.  a long  story  about  English  poli- 
tics, when  a convenient  opportunity  should  occur.  I 
thought  the  present  an  admirable  one;  for  nobody  seemed 
to  have  anything  to  say,  and  it  was  highly  desirable  that 
something  should  be  said.  I made  my  story  long  enough 
to  beguile  four  miles;  by  which  time,  some  were  too  tired, 
and  others  too  much  disheartened,  for  more  conversation. 
Something  white  was  soon  after  visible.  Our  driver  gave 
out  that  it  was  a house,  half  a mile  from  Chicago.  But  no : 
it  was  an  emigrant  encampment,  on  a morsel  of  raised,  dry 
ground;  and  again  we  were  uncertain  whether  we  were  in 
the  right  road.  Presently,  however,  the  Chicago  beacon 
was  visible,  shining  a welcome  to  us  through  the  dim,  misty 
air.  The  horses  seemed  to  see  it,  for  they  quickened  their 
pace;  and  before  half-past  ten,  we  were  on  the  bridge. 

The  family,  at  my  temporary  home,  were  gone  up  to 
their  chambers;  but  the  wood-fire  was  soon  replenished, 
tea  made,  and  the  conversation  growing  lively.  My  com- 
panions were  received  as  readily  at  their  several  resting- 
places.  When  we  next  met,  we  found  ourselves  all  dis- 
posed to  place  warm  hospitality  very  high  on  the  list  of 
virtues. 

While  we  were  at  Detroit,  we  were  most  strongly  urged 
to  return  thither  by  the  Lakes,  instead  of  by  either  of  the 
Michigan  roads.  From  place  to  place,  in  my  previous 
travelling,  I had  been  told  of  the  charms  of  the  Lakes,  and 
especially  of  the  Island  of  Mackinaw.  Every  officer’s  lady 


4 6 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


who  has  been  in  garrison  there,  is  eloquent  upon  the  de- 
lights of  Mackinaw.  As  our  whole  party,  however,  could 
not  spare  time  to  make  so  wide  a circuit,  we  had  not  in- 
tended to  indulge  ourselves  with  a further  variation  in  our 
travels  than  to  take  the  upper  road  back  to  Detroit;  having: 
left  it  by  the  lower.  On  Sunday,  June  27,  news  arrived  at 
Chicago  that  this  Tipper  road  had  been  rendered  impassable 
by  the  rains.  A sailing  ship,*  the  only  one  on  the  l akes, 
and  now  on  her  first  trip,  was  to  leave  Chicago  for  Detroit 
and  Buffalo,  the  next  day.  The  case  was  clear:  the  party 
must  divide.  Those  who  were  obliged  to  hasten  home 
must  return  by  the  road  we  came;  the  rest  must  proceed 
by  water.  On  Charley’s  account  the  change  of  plan  was 
desirable;  as  the  heats  were  beginning  to  be  so  oppressive 
as  to  render  travelling  in  open  wagons  unsafe  for  a child. 
It  was  painful  to  break  up  our  party  at  the  extreme  point  of 
our  journey;  but  it  was  clearly  right.  So  Mr.  and  Mrs.  L. 
took  their  chance  by  land;  and  the  rest  of  us  went  on 
board  the  Milwaukee,  at  two  o’clock  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  28th. 

Mrs.  F.  and  I were  the  only  ladies  on  board;  and  there 
was  no  stewardess.  The  steward  was  obliging,  and  the 
ladies’  cabin  was  clean  and  capacious ; and  we  took  posses- 
sion of  it  with  a feeling  of  comfort.  Our  pleasant  impres- 
sions, however,  were  not  of  long  duration.  The  vessel  was 
crowed  with  persons  who  had  come  to  the  land  sales  at 
Chicago,  and  were  taking  their  passage  back  to  Milwaukee; 
a settlement  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  about  eighty 
miles  from  Chicago.  Till  we  should  reach  Milwaukee,  we 
could  have  the  ladies’  cabin  only  during  a part  of  the  day. 
I say  a part  of  the  day,  because  some  of  the  gentry  did  not 
leave  our  cabin  till  near  nine  in  the  morning;  and  others 
chose  to  come  down,  and  go  to  bed,  as  early  as  seven  in 
the  evening,  without  troubling  themselves  to  give  us  five 
minutes’  notice,  or  to  wait  till  we  could  put  up  our  needles, 
or  wipe  our  pens.  This  ship  was  the  only  place  in  Amer- 
ica where  I saw  a prevalence  of  bad  manners.  It  was  the 
place  of  all  others  to  select  for  the  study  of  such;  and  no 
reasonable  person  would  look  for  anything  better  among 
land-speculators,  and  settlers  in  regions  so  new  as  to  be 
almost  without  women.  None  of  us  had  ever  before  seen, 
in  America,  a disregard  of  women.  The  swearing  was 

* Ship  Milwaukee. 


BY  HARRIET  MARTINEAU.  47 

incessant ; and  the  spitting  such  as  to  amaze  my  American 
companions  as  much  as  myself. 

Supper  was  announced  presently  after  we  had  sailed; 
and  when  we  came  to  the  table,  it  was  full,  and  no  one 
offered  to  stir,  to  make  room  for  us.  The  captain,  who  was 
very  careful  of  our  comfort,  arranged  that  we  should  be 
better  served  henceforth;  and  no  difficulty  afterwards  oc- 
curred. At  dinner,  the  next  day,  we  had  a specimen  of 
how  such  personage  as  we  had  on  board  are  managed  on 
an  emergency.  The  captain  gave  notice,  from  the  head  of 
the  table,  that  he  did  no’t  choose  our  party  to  be  intruded 
on  in  the  cabin;  and  that  any  one  who  did  not  behave 
with  civility  at  table  should  be  turned  out.  He  spoke  with 
decision  and  good-humor;  and  the  effect  was  remarkable. 
Everything  on  the  table  was  handed  to  us;  and  no  more  of 
the  gentry  came  down  into  our  cabin  to  smoke,  or  throw 
themselves  on  the  cushions  to  sleep,  while  we  sat  at  work. 
Our  fare  was  what  might  be  expected  on  Lake  Michigan- 
Salt  beef  and  pork,  and  sea-biscuit;  tea  , without  milk, 
bread,  and  potatoes.  Charley  throve  upon  potatoes  and 
bread;  and  we  all  had  the  best  results  of  food, — health  and 
strength. 

A little  schooner  which  left  Chicago  at  the  same  time 
with  ourselves,  and  reached  Milwaukee  first,  was  a pretty 
object.  On  the  29th,  we  were  only  twenty-five  miles  from 
the  settlement;  but  the  wind  was  so  unfavorable  that  it 
was  doubtful  whether  we  should  reach  it  that  day.  Some 
of  the  passengers  amused  themselves  by  gaming,  down  in 
the  hold;  others  by  parodying  a methodist  sermon,  and 
singing  a mock  hymn.  We  did  not  get  rid  of  them  till 
noon  on  the  30th,  when  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  our 
ship  disgorge  twenty-five  into  one  boat,  and  two  into  an- 
other. The  atmosphere  was  so  transparent  as  to  make  the 
whole  scene  appear  as  if  viewed  through  an  opera-glass; 
the  still,  green  waters,  the  dark  boats  with  their  busy  oars, 
the  moving  passengers,  and  the  struggles  of  one  to  recover 
his  hat,  which  had  fallen  overboard.  We  were  yet  five 
miles  from  Milwaukee;  but  we  could  see  the  bright,  wooded 
coast,  with  a few  white  dots  of  houses. 

While  Dr.  F.  went  on  shore,  to  see  what  was  to  be  seen, 
we  had  the  cabin  cleaned  out,  and  took,  once  more,  com- 
plete possession  of  it,  for  both  day  and  night.  As  soon  as 
this  was  done,  seven  young  women  came  down  the  com- 


48 


STRANGE  EARLY  DAYS. 


panion-way,  seated  themselves  round  the  cabin,  and  began 
to  question  us.  They  were  the  total  female  population  of 
Milwaukee;  which  settlement  now  contains  four  hundred 
souls.  We  were  glad  to  see  these  ladies ; for  it  was  natu- 
ral enough  that  the  seven  women  should  wish  to  behold 
two  more,  when  such  a chance  offered.  A gentleman  of 
the  place,  who  came  on  board  this  afternoon,  told  me  that 
a printing-press  had  arrived  a few  hours  before ; and  that  a 
newspaper  would  speedily  appear.*  He  was  kind  enough 
to  forward  the  first  number  to  me  a few  weeks  afterwards; 
and  I was  amused  to  see  how  pathetic  an  appeal  to  the 
ladies  of  more  thickly-settled  districts  it  contained;  implor- 
ing them  to  cast  a favorable  eye  on  Milwaukee,  and  its 
hundreds  of  bachelors.  Milwaukee  had  been  settled  since 
the  preceding  November.  It  had  good  stores;  (to  judge 
by  the  nature  and  quantity  of  goods  sent  ashore  from  our 
ship);  it  had  a printing-press  and  newspaper,,  before  the 
settlers  had  had  time  to  get  wives.  I heard  these  new  set- 
tlement sometimes  called  “patriarchal:”  but  what  would 
the  patriarchs  have  said  to  such  an  order  of  affairs?  • 

Dr.  F.  returned  from  the  town  with  apple-pies,  cheese, 
and  ale,  wherewith  to  vary  our  ship  diet.  With  him  ar- 
rived such  a number  of  towns-people,  that  the  steward 
wanted  to  turn  us  out  of  our  cabin  once  more : but  we  were 
sturdy,  appealed  to  the  captain,  and  were  confirmed  in  pos- 
session. From  this  time,  began  the  delights  of  our  voyage. 
The  moon,  with  her  long  train  of  glory,  was  magnificent 
to-night;  the  vast  body  of  water  on  which  she  shone  being 
as  calm  as  if  the  winds  were  dead. 

The  navigation  of  these  lakes,  is  at  present,  a mystery. 
They  have  not  yet  been  properly  surveyed.  Our  captain 
had  gone  to  and  fro  on  Lake  Huron,  but  had  never  before 
been  on  Lake  Michigan;  and  this  was  rather  an  anxious 
voyage  to  him.  We  had  got  aground  on  the  sand-bar 
before  Milwaukee  harbor;  and  on  the  ist  of  July,  all  hands 
were  busy  in  unshipping  the  cargo,  to  lighten  the  vessel, 
instead  of  carrying  her  up  to  the  town.  An  elegant  little 
schooner  was  riding  at  anchor  near  us;  and  we  were  well 
amused  in  admiring  her,  and  in  watching  the  bustle  on 
deck,  till  some  New  England  youths,  and  our  Milwaukee 
acquaintance,  brought  us,  from  the  shore,  two  newspapers, 
some  pebbles,  flowers,  and  a pitcher  of  fine  strawberries. 

* Milwaukee  Sentinel, 


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